2008 Mustang GT Seats / Black Cloth / Pony Pattern / Air Bags Intact / Normal Wear on Drivers Side with no Rips or Tears. Passenger side and rear in excellent condition. Have been sitting for a couple of years so they are dusty and probably need a shampoo. No Stains / Drivers Side Electric / Seat Harness Included. Located in Garland TX. I have the item listed on craigslist for $400 but for you fine gentlemen $300 takes them all. Thanks

Garland Safety Lane has done three pre 70's mustang alignments for me. All were fantastic.

2641 S. Garland Ave
Garland, TX 75041
(972) 278-7202

Hi All, does anybody know where I can get a replacement plug for a gas tank. I seem to have lost mine.

1968 Mustang, 390/C6

 

Hi All, I need a drive shaft for a 1968 S-Code Mustang 390/C6 to a ford 8". Or if you have any advice as to where to get one made.

Thanks

Jeff
 

Do you have any shifter rods for a 390-428/C6 setup. Stock automatic Shifter?

Thanks

 

Russell, a friend of mine (offered to sell me the 67 fastback 15 years ago for $7,000).

Needless to say I am an idiot for not considering it at the time.

Here it is at the 2013 Autorama.

Here are photos of my 1967 Coupe - 302, C4, AC Car, Power Brakes, 8" Rear, Black interior with Console.
Bought: 2006, Finished in 2007.

Me at the 2013 Autorama

At the autorama.


302 Engine (liked the way the sun was hitting that day)

 

Im not sure I would try and put the hose bracket on the lower control arm bolt. That bolt when loosened can cause your front end to go out of alignment. Be careful, you can change your camber inadvertently by messing with that bolt.

 

My hoses were so long that, even in the hose clamp bracket, they still seemed to want to droop down too much. So I got the large electrical wire holders to hold them up by the crossmember. They are not original to the car, but were necessary to keep the hoses up a little. I only used them because the person who helped me had used them also, and they work great. The "Electrical Wire Holders" have a thick piece of rubber inside, protecting the hose.

These pictures are not of my car, but from the person, here on this site, that sent them to me. I did mine just like this however.

Hope this helps.
 

Not to worry, it wasn't my car that burned up. Just trying to help a friend and help someone on here that may have the parts and need some cash.

Prefer to use old rather than new, i think the all parts mentioned are the same for the coups and fastbacks. Maybee someone knows of a parts car, or one totaled in the rear?

I would be surprised if there were even aftermarket parts for the underdash sheet metal.

Thanks

 

Ok, here is my take on this. Timing determines when the spark is delivered to the plug. Phasing determines how much "fire" gets to the plug. If it is out on timing, it may spark early or late, but if it is out on phasing it may spark on time but with diminished "spark". If the rotor doesn't line of correctly with the cap pole, say it is off a little, it wont deliver as much spark. If it is too far off, it may deliver spark to the wrong plug, or even two plugs. The whole rotor is a "system", if you rotate the rotor, it doesn't chage the "system", it just changes the "timing". However if you open the "system", there is another "Internal system" inside, Phasing the "internal system" to where the rotor properly aligns with the cap will give you a hotter spark.

Correct?

 

Update: I placed the rear end on jack stands today. Pumped the brakes up real good and got out and both wheels were locked up, but after another quick pump, they released all of a sudden. Since both wheels would not turn, I figured you guys were right about the center hose. Found the right one at the local Pep Boys, put it on and tried to bleed it. I was not able to bleed it, not sure why but I didn't get any air out of the upper connection, just brake fluid. There has to be air in there somewhere?

Anyways, after the frustration of not being able to bleed them I was checking to see if the brakes would stop the rear wheels when applied. To my delight they were stopping well enough that I could not turn either rear wheel as hard as I tried. I pumped them up several times, got out and the rears turned perfectly. So after checking for leaks, I put her on the ground and went for a test drive. The brakes feel different than before, better actually. Got her up to 35 and they stopped really well. They also seem a little spungy - ier than before. The seemed really hard to push before the hose change.

I am delighted that it seems to have fixed the problem. BTW that is the only component I didn't change 8 years ago when I went through the barking system. Go Figure. LOL

Anyway I tried blowing through the new line before installation(with my mouth), it was sort of hard, but I was getting air through it. On the one I removed, I could not seem to get any air through at all.

I can't help but worry as to why after an hour of attempts and half a bottle of fluid I didn't seem to get any air out. but for now I am satisfied.

Thanks guys, another problem solved! This site rocks!!!!