Getting started is a great feeling.  Don't let the daunting task get to you.  If you start to get burned out, take a break, recharge and get back at it when you can.  My '65 sat undriveable for about 30 months when we did the body work, paint, floor pans, doors, etc.  Other projects ranged from a few days to a few months.  Firing it up for the first time makes it all worth while.

Good luck!

MustangSteve wrote:

Typically the radiators that puke out coolant are overfilled.  Correct level is 1" BELOW the bottom of the filler neck.  Any more than that and it will self-correct until it reaches that level, the it will stop.  The tank does not add to the cooling effect that takes place in the finned tubes.  It just needs to have enough water in it to reach all the tubes.

You can say I am wrong if you want, but they did not have overflow tanks from the factory.  I'm not saying I am not for improvements whenever possible.  Just saying that I have never had one overflow when filled to the proper level, no matter what the temperature was outside or how long I idled in traffic.  A 13 # cap like was originally installed is a must for proper water retention. 

If it makes you feel more secure to have an overflow tank, by all means install one.  But an overflow tank will not keep an engine with an overheating problem from overheating.

And, if you run in sanctioned drag racing, I believe one is an absolute requirement according to their rules.

I didn't know that .  I always filled up around to the 1/2" below or a little higher.  If I ever made it up to the collar level I'd expect a little overflow.  It was an adjustment moving from the stock to the four row though.  I've had to burp the newer one more than once even after letting it cycle.  I love it though, cools great.

boomyal wrote:

MustangSteve wrote:

....I can honestly say I have never understood the need for an overflow tank on a SBF. ~~~~~  I will even forego ANY PROFIT at all since I really believe they are a waste of time.

Not sure how you can make such statements as this forum and others are full of posts about stock early V8's running warm/hot.  Mine in particular is a dead stock 289 2bbl with a stock dimension upgraded 3 row radiator running a shrouded 7 blade flex fan.  Running at parade speeds, in 60ish° weather, it would always run warmish then puke coolant once I shut it down.  This is all on a low mileage factory long block with no possibility of compromised coolant passages.

Once I installed the 3 x 10" tubular recovery system, it no longer blew out coolant on shut down.
 

My stock rad setup with a flex fan (no shroud) spit up coolant in traffic during summer time in Houston.  I moved to a four core all aluminum radiator with a home made shroud and it hasn't been an issue since.  I already had the recovery bottle though.

So we got it fired up yesterday after a little fuel/spark excitement.  The new carb hadn't been tightened up properly and the power wire to the distributor had come apart at a connecter.  It sounded great in the garage.  Crazy acoustics with the front end facing out, but not great for fumes blasting around near the door to the house.  Even with the side garage door open it was a little overpowering.

However, for some reason the secondary boosters on the carb aren't squirting.  Pretty sure the bowl is filling up and the accel pump is getting a good seal.  It's a lot of pressure like it's trying but no dice.  I'll pull it apart tonight to check the metering block for the wrong gasket or some blockage.  That's all that's keeping me from a test drive!

I picked up the motor from the machine shop and dropped it in the car on Saturday.  If we hadn't misplaced that oil sending fitting we could have started it up .  I found the fitting so as soon as it's a little warmer in the garage I'll get it test fired.

DBROWN wrote:

That is a big cam, and with porting the heads,he may be right. 
 Why did you have to have the valve springs upgraded with a .499 lift? I just put together a motor with trick fllow heads and my cam has like .530 to .540 lift, trick flow list the stock springs as capable of .600 lift. I figured I would be good with the out of the box springs on trick flow twisted wedge 170 heads. I ask because I want to make sure I am good on my springs.

Pretty sure it was a pressure thing not a clearance thing.  The stock ones were too light (if that's the correct term?).  From the way it was explained to me that aggressive cam required more seat pressure.

DBROWN wrote:

My Guess, it will make 450+ flywheel HP, But may be a tad under 400 rwh.  

 

That's exactly what I was thinking.  But my mechanic friend predicts well over 500 at the flywheel, 400+ at the wheels.  He's got about 35 years experience on me and is a Mustang guy so I'm hoping I lose this bet.  I guess either way I really win though!

+1 to the Shelby drop suggestion.  I did that and added the 1" sway bar and it's a massive difference.

Of course that could be mostly the bar, but hey

Oh I'll be there to "help" if we do the engine dyno .  I wouldn't spend that money and just let someone else have all the fun!  I was hoping to learn a bit too.

Greetings all!  I hope everyone had a safe and happy holiday and new year!  I took a break from all things car related for the holiday season but the warmer weather here in Houston has kicked me back into gear.  I think I got to drive the '65 for maybe five weeks before I'm back into tear down mode . 

Back in December I did stumble across a machine shop that had a stroker block w/girdle and studs all ready for rotatiting assembly.  The builder is local and has a good rep so I went ahead and started up on the project.  He ordered me a forged rotating assembly to match my twisted wedge heads and I've been pulling apart the top end of my current motor to clean up the parts that will be reused.  Heads, Vic. Jr. intake, distributor are making the cut but I needed a new oil pan, carb and a few other fixings.  Side note:  I now know the difference between annular and downleg boosters.  Ya learn something every day!

The rotating assembly should be balanced this week and hopefully we'll get it completely assembled by the end of next week.  The builder offered to engine dyno test/tune it with me so I'm seriously considering it.  I've never done an engine dyno but it seems like a much more efficient way to tune.

I'll get some pictures the next time I'm at the shop, and a whole slew more when we drop the motor in.  Looking forward to making some nice power and finally removing the cardboard boxes from my garage floor to catch the oil drips from my old motor. 

I'd probably be up for driving up to Dallas, staying the night and making the trip up to OK.  Assuming nothing goes wrong with the stroker swap next month and I get that rear wobbly axle sorted out .  Definitely keep this thread going.

GPatrick wrote:

What is the part number for the headers you ended up with?

I think it was the 1650SJS.  I got the silver ceramic coated ones.