The original shifter bezel screws have been MIA for years. I know AMK makes a kit but after shipping, it's like $15 for 4 dinky screws. Anyone happen to know the size and thread pitch for the 69 AT shifter bezel hold down screws?

 

The issue is it only lasted 6 months...

Worked fine and today I was replacing a bulb, it blinked twice really dim and then died.
Swapped ALL the bulbs, new fuse (even though the old looked fine), new flasher. Still no turn signal. brake lights, hazards, and parking lights all work.

Just sucks, OEM lasted 50 years...

Those are all insane.
 

6sally6 wrote:

Suggest using largest tubes possible and soft bends in the pipe. (I REALLY vote for zero mufflers buttt..I know how that would go over)
6sal6

I drive this thing almost daily in the summer and can't stand the noise, and "drone" noise is a no go for me. So maybe starting with 3" into a 2.5" H before the muffler (which only comes in the 2.5" flavor). Maybe reducing into 2" at the tip.

I've heard and read that as the exhaust cools it slows down, so a reduction of diameter forces the speed to stay up. Anyone think is bunk? Or only matter with high revving race motors?

Base '69 Sportsroof. redoing the dash and found these plugs. Only thing I can think of is clock, even though my car didn't come with one. What are they for?

Is there any way to tell without tearing it all down if I have the wider drums and pads on my '69? It has drums on all 4 corners. V8 5-lug hubs. I know they should be 10" but how do I know what width without pulling it all off?

Any way to tell which it should be based on the data plate?

what a pain in the -oh no I used a word I shouldn't have-. it's on now.
 

Do the seats from the SN95's have the same frame width as the Fox bodies? I have the seats from an 82 on the 69 tracks, but the seats are trash and I have a chance to get a mint set out of a 2000. Has anybody used these seats or know the frame width?

After all the bug searches I finally got my interior lights to work again, along with my turn signals and hazards. Haven't had a chance to double-check the backup lights, but everything so far seems to be working again after replacing the turn signal switch, reverse lockout and replacing fuses. Somewhere along the past 50 years the Buss fuses were replaced with AGC's instead of SFE's, not sure what the difference is... 

Anywho... I want to replace the interior courtesy bulbs with LED's because I want it to be decades before I have to take those sail panels out of the fastback again and the normal bulbs are just a bit on the dim side for my liking anyway. The ones under the dash are 631's and the ones in the sail panels are 1003's. This is the same base (1142), just different wattages. My question; if I use 1142 base LED's which draw less power than either original bulb, are they going to be insane bright? Has anyone else done this? suggestions or recommendations? 
 

That's why I'm using a factory Ford setup. The Contour style has its own shroud which is almost exactly the same dimensions as my radiator tank. They're quiet and flow upwards of 3500cfm at only 3" thick. Way more than my current flex fan without a shroud. ;)

Bolted to Floor wrote:

For the overly obvious question, was the ignition switch in the run or accessory position when testing for turn signals?? 

Both key on and off. Nada. I haven't had a chance to locate the other blinker though to test swapping them.

I've never designed a circuit before and I just want to make sure that this should work. I have no idea if it DOES work. That's why I posted. 

Also, what would the ideal fan temp trigger ranges be for a 351W based stroker? .060" overbore and 393 crank.