The shims are there to protect the carpet, plus they allow you to tighten the seat nuts without pulling the seat track down into the carpet.  The curved part goes down and follows the curvature of the floor pan.

MS wrote:

My neighbor is missing a part of his fold down rear seat. Namely, the flat carpeted panel that forms the rearmost part of the platform, the piece that has to be removed to install the shock absorbers. Does anybody know where he could get one? He took his car to a shop to get new shocks installed and that panel disappeared. Happened several years ago. Car sat and he did not notice until I helped him get it running again last week. Of course, the shop has closed down.


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You might try Missouri Mustang in Webb City, Mo.  He has a mustang salvage yard and I got some fastback parts from him.  His name is Rusty phone 417-6731990.
 

GPatrick wrote:

it's the two holes at about 8:00 next to big hole.  What fork bracket do you have? Thanks for the info.  My bell housing has four holes in that area and I have tried all the combinations and the only way it puts the release bearing in the center of the big hole is to use the two holes closest to the big hole.  I did get a email from someone at Holly and he said the bracket will only go one way.  Best I can see there is eight ways the bracket for the fork will go.  I am using the '68-'69 fork with the spring clip on the back, but when I try to get the bearing and fork on the input shaft, the fork won't stay on the pivot point.  I noticed there is a small hole on each side of the clutch.  Is a spring or something to be used there?  I am trying to mock up the installation of an external slave cylinder by mounting the bell housing on the transmission while it is on my transmission jack, but can't get fork to stay on the pivot point while I put the bell housing on the trans.

Has anyone had any experience with using a Lakewood scatter shield with a '68 Mustang clutch fork?  It is the one with the spring clip on the back to attach to the Lakewood housing.  A couple of pieces came with the bell housing to locate the clutch fork, but no instructions as to which one goes in which set of holes to mount the fork.  I can't get the fork to stay attached to the bell housing when I try to get the transmission input shaft to go through the release bearing.  It seems as though I am missing something to hold the fork on the brkt. inside the housing.  With the Lakewood housing, does it take a special fork unique for the Lakewood hsg.?  I sent an email to Holly, which Lakewood is a branch of them, but they apparently don't answer emails with any regularity.  I also called them numerous times only to be told I am 5th or 15th on the list and after holding for 10 minutes I finally gave up.  Thanks for any help.

Does anyone know of someone or some company that offers a kit to install an external slave cylinder for hydraulic clutch actuation?  The application would need to be for a '65 with a 4speed top loader.  I am totally fed up with the hydraulic release bearing set-up.  Thanks Jerry

1fststang wrote:

the set up I got is the Modern Driveline with an external slave cylinder connected to the clutch arm,

I guess we will see how it works out. I have a cable set up on my 67 coupe but just don't really care for how it feels but it works fine.  I thought on the Fastback I would try the hydraulic.
 

How is the slave cylinder attached to the clutch arm on your application?  I am getting tired of having to pull the transmission each time I need to check things at the throw-out bearing.  With the full scatter shield, I can't check anything without pulling the trans.  Can you send a picture maybe?  Thanks
 

Can anyone offer some help with bleeding of Master Driveline hydraulic clutch with a Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing?  I had to replace a rear main seal on my '65 with a 351 motor and top loader 4 speed.  I only disconnected the supply line at the master cylinder whenever I removed the bell housing and lost very little fluid when I did it.  After I got it all back together, now I have no clutch.  I bled it the way I originally did, and the way they told me, but still no clutch.  I did it seven time and then called Master Driveline and they sold me a one-man bleeder kit to bleed the system.  After trying it 4 more times, still have no clutch.  I have gravity bled it first and got good flow through the bleed line. I made special precautions to make sure neither of the lines from the throw-out bearing weren't kinked when I stabbed the tranny.  Now I wish I would have went with a different way to release the clutch.  Rear deep in the rabbit hole now.  Any suggestions?

I bought a set of FPA hedders from Stan and I can't speak highly enough about his products and himself.  He offered to send me a set of hedders first without my paying for them and trusted me to pay for them if they worked.  The fit to the heads was perfect.  I screwed the bolts in by hand.  (Try that on some of them others)  I only had to do some rework on my chassis due to other than stock engine I was doing, but the hedders are really perfect for fitment and Stan was great help.

HudginJ3 wrote:

I thought if you got a reverse rotating water pump you had to change the timing chain cover to match the water pump.???

I may be wrong, but I think if you go with a serpentine set-up you have to also change the timing cover.  If you compare the inlet and outlet passages on the back of each cover, you will see that the flow of coolant is different between each system.  I had to change mine when I went to the serpentine set-up.  Been wrong before.
 

MS wrote:

Sounds like mine at 74 mph. Been chasing it since 1993.
Been through different engines, transmissions, driveshafts, rear ends, wheels and brakes.

I think a 1,000 watt mega-stereo is the only answer.

Or, if you figure it out, please let me know!

When I worked for Ford Mtr., in the mid eighties, we worked with a resonance roar that engineers hung a large tuneing weight on the tailshaft of the transmissions to cancel out the moan.  I don't know if it was all engines or specific ones, but there isn't a mounting boss on the Top Loaders to try that plus I don't know where to get one to try.  I guess I may just have to spin the motor up to 3400 rpm and hope I don't run into radar.
 

Update:  I did clean all the grounds plus the battery cable pos. cables and load tested the battery.  In the process of doing this, I ran across something else that could be the problem, but since I did several things at once, not sure what fixed it.  Anyway, I haven't had a problem since I did all those.  Sometime during all the road tests, apparently the main 12v feed line from the batt. to the ignition box got over into the fan blade and cut some of the insulation off the wire and exposed the wire to the fan blade tips.  I have a mechanical fan blade.  I surmise at shut-off of the motor, one of the blade tips rested against the open wire for the 12v feed to the ign. box and made a direct short.  Thus the dim lights, the pegging out of the voltmeter.  That's what I suspected from the start, but couldn't prove it until I saw that wire.  It seems unlikely that the problem would occur very often with that wire touching the blade tip, but I fixed the wire and got everything buttoned down and haven't had another re-occurance.
Thanks to everyone for the help.  Jerry

351 motor in my '65 has been starting fine since I got it on the road, but yesterday, went to start it and all I got was a "click" when I turned key to start.  The interior lights are real dim and light on the radio is barely lit.  Naturally I thought battery, but battery showed 14.7 volts when I did get running.  I put a charger on it and meter on charger pegged to the negative side and no amp reading at the meter.  After a while, tried it again and car started.  backed car out of garage and shut it off and tried it again and same issue. Interior light read dim and voltmeter on car didn't register voltage.

Cable routing is: battery positive cable goes to a latching relay and then to starter solenoid and then to starter.  The latching relay is a battery disconnect relay that doesn't require constant voltage to operate and thus run the battery down when activated.  It is a mechanical latching relay that receives a ground signal via a momentary switch.

I have a ground wire from battery to motor and from the motor to the frame and have continuity to ground at both places. The thing that puzzles me, is why after it sets a while, it goes back to normal operation. Trouble is, I never know when it is going to leave me setting when I shut off the motor. I don't think it is a heat issue because the first time it did it, the car had been setting for several days before I went to start it.
I don't know what would be the best diagnostic route to approach finding the problem.  Can someone help me with  diagnostics?  Is it possible for starters to lock up and pull excessive amps that way? I never hear a big "clunk" like it is trying to engage.

Is the '65 gas cap originally a vented cap?  Does "vented" mean it lets pressure out and lets air in as fuel is displaced in the tank.  I have installed the FiTech EFI system and I don't want to collapse the tank. I see the valve in the cap that lets out pressure, but need to know if it works the other way also.  I can't see a way to install a vent/roll over valve in the system and get it higher than the fill pipe and be out of the trunk/passenger area. Thanks  Jerry