Somebody near me has one for sale and I've been wanting to convert to a 9in for a while on my 67, but I remember hearing some negative issues with the disc brakes on those and I was wondering can other disc brake systems be adapted on them. 

I have the original factory system from 1967 and was just wondering what the system could best handle. I saw a guy comment on another forum saying he was told to keep between 700-900 psi but I've not seen any others to corroborate that with and I thought I try this forum with the wealth of knowledge in here I've seen on here.

I was looking to buy that kit but I was just wanting know what pressure the system will hold up to

I just was reading about it recently and was blown away that for the last 20 years it was just an hour up the road from me in middle tennessee.

I just saw one rebuilt for sale in my area and was just wondering if you would have to modify a lot.

I have flowmaster 40s on my 67 that dump in front of the rear axle without a x or h pipe. I'm looking to eventually have it redone adding a x or h pipe and still dumped in front of the rear axle. The flowmasters have a little bit more drone than I like. I've thought about trying a different muffler, but not sure which I want to try. I'd like to have a loud sound on acceleration but without the strong drone while cruising.

The walk is mostly affected by the bumps in the road. It almost feels like play in the steering, but when its parked you can rock the wheel and get good response.

A few years back I overhauled the front suspension on my 67 coupe and done the Shelby drop. I've had issues ever since. I hauled the car to a alignment shop, but driving after I left, I could tell it wasn't right. It was walking pretty bad. I have recently took a magnet based digital degree gauge and bought a toe plate kit and tried to do the adjustments myself after getting the idea from a previous post off of this site awhile back. It's better than it was but still not right. It still wants to walk. Prior to doing the suspension overhaul, it tracked fine going down the road, but hasn't been right since. I put wider tires on it during that transition but wouldn't think it would affect it that much. I used Daze's alignment specs and used a template for the Shelby drop. I don't think the steering box is bad but could be wrong. It was perfectly fine before the overhaul. If anybody has suggestions, I'm all ears. I liked to be to enjoy driving it again.

They were brand new moog lower control arms straight out of the box and I just remembered the metal sleeve part of the bushing was a little wider. How much I can't remember. That was a year ago.

I did the upper control arm drop and had the guy do it to the specs that daze has on his website. I instructed the guy not to adjust to factory specs

The stud I'm talking about is like 7" lg. If you try to use a bolt there, the radiator will get in your way.

It's going to cost me 500 to 600 dollars to fix what I got