Looks like things a coming along just fine, no real (costly) surprises, let's see it when its done. 

TKOPerformance wrote:

BobE wrote:

True, true, true!  And if you try to explain, you only get a dropped jaw, or a blank stare, or maybe the start of an argument.  I've taken to mostly just nodding my head.  

Yeah, you can't upset their apple cart with facts.  You can't fix stupid.  Trust me, I've tried.  

That is true also. 
 

MS wrote:

Be sure your new clutch pedal is in place before attempting to put the AC hose for the driver side in place. That hose will get flattened somewhat where it must go ABOVE the pedal support. It will still move plenty of air.

Also, figue in the movement of the wiper arms and the AC hose. 
 

MS - well stated.  

The seal maybe expanding when heated up, provided the seal, I’ve heard of that, but I haven’t heard of it start leaking again when cooled down.   
Your whole experience is definitely a very odd situation.

Greg B wrote:

I still think it might be worth looking into to use the lower idler. I had found a website about industrial premature hearing failure and one of the causes was not enough contact of the drive belt with the pulley. It supposedly causes a low frequency harmonic vibration that is what causes the bearing to fail. I googled things like water pump bearing failures to find it.

I wonder if cvf knows this, and that.Maybe s why they are wanted the bling cover on. To try to limit vibrations.

Again just thinking.....researching...looking outside the box.

My only input to that would be if this was a ‘manufacturing’ issue, it should be a common failure for this setup from CVT.  I totally agree this is an odd issue, and that maybe there are multiple issues causing the problem.  (That makes it more difficult to find)
If not tried already, I’d Google the issue and see if anything comes up.

 

Anyone looking for the project?

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/gm-l83-lt-heads-5-0l-302-ford-small-block-engine?utm_campaign=HOT_ROD-Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_source=SES&utm_type=organic&utm_content=20250620_HOT_ROD-Newsletter&utm_term=gm-l83-lt-heads-5-0l-302-ford-small-block-engine&email_subject=Pro%20Tips%20for%20Laying%20Down%20Waterborne%20Paint&email_list_name=hotrod&n_emid=79453bf2aa86d5872ae93626ed12a1b5&element_parent=Trending%20Articles&element_name=WTF?!%20GM%20L83%20LT%20Heads%20on%20a%205.0L%20302%20Ford%20Small-Block?%20Really??
 

Nice lineup of Mustangs, how many other cars showed up? 

RTM wrote:

MS wrote:

Temember the Hot Rod Magazine Monroe Shock custom?

 
There's an MII Monroe Mustang for sale on Facebook in one of the MII groups. It's all original down to the paint and he's asking $35k.

I don’t remember the MII Monroe Mustang, so I Googled it … and yes, still don’t care for the aerodynamic body add-ons or paint graphics.

 

Good luck with this project, don't get frustrated, there is a lot on your plate.  

MS wrote:

I think I found the source of the noise. Two of the idler pulleys have issues. One feels like the bearing is dry. It most likely is what I am hearing. Another idler is slipping where the bearings are pressed into it. It has slid 1/8” on the shaft, causing the belt to overlap the outer edge about 1/32”.
I sent pics and a description to CVF today. They have always responded and have sent two power steering pumps, a second water pump and a new alternator after each item failed. That alone does not represent a good record for the parts they supplied, but they do try to make good on stuff. I requested they replace all three idlers. These two failed ones only went 4,500 miles, and I think the dry one was making the noise I was hearing after the first thousand miles. I just noticed one of the clips that holds the p/s tank to the pump had come loose so now I have to pull the alternator AGAIN to be able to get to the clip.

Can you say. POOR QUALITY??? I can’t believe I am stuck with this thing. Replacing it will require completely redoing the AC system plumbing.

Just a thought, with that many CVF system component failures, you might want to try Facebook to see if there is a CVF page that others may have identified similar issues you're experiencing. 
Again, just a thought.

 

Nos681 wrote:

Have you tried a slightly longer belt?
The requirement of removing the alternator pulley is why I mention it.

When I swapped the 3G alternator into the Foxbody serpentine drive, pulley was slightly larger than the 2G alternator pulley. The existing belt was difficult to install. If I remember correctly, the tensioner was at the tight end of the range for the belt…I think. Any who, I believe the belt under load applied excessive force on my p/s pump and it failed.

The Wrapalator appears to place constant downward pressure on the water pump. Under load applies more force than the small water pump bearing and housing can handle. Especially with the short span and the 2 fixed pulleys.

The ribbed side of serpentine belts do not slip like the backside in the factory drive.

I would tend to agree that the belt maybe too tight; that it places too much load on the pump bearing and that leads to seal and bearing failure.  Consider a longer belt that Nos681 suggested and I’ll add check the tension applied from the belt tensioner.