Looks really good. 

50vert wrote:

Here ya go Ron.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-door-latch-repair-plate-pair-mustang-1967-1970/p/DLRP2/

Yep, that looks like the one I installed. 

I purchased a repair plate for that purpose many years ago.  It is not welded in, and used the existing screws to hold it in place. It has held up for about the past 20 years.  Suggest checking with the supply houses to see if it is still available.

wsinsle wrote:

How did you adjust the filler neck?

I purchased a filler neck for this conversion from CJ Pony.  I had issues with the gas cap fitting, cap location was off when tightened (off by a lot), and had to spend time grinding the neck where the cap tabs screw onto so the cap would align properly when tightened. 
 

I use black split braided sleeving because I like the look.  As the ends tend to unravel, I use either heat shrink tubing or a black “OEM harness tape” made for vehicles. 
 

moon4964 wrote:

The speedometer on my restored 1964 Falcon rattled as though the new cable needed to be dry-lubed. Cable lube administered. The rattle became intermittent but did not disappear. Now the indicator is stuck at 40mph, and the rattle is gone. This appears to be a problem with the mechanism behind the speedometer and not the cable.  I would like to hear from any member who has had a similar problem. I would like to replace the mechanism and not the entire instrument cluster.

My one experience years ago with speedometer cable noise, the solution was “Lubrease; Chain & Cable Lubricant”, that is not a 'dry' type. I removed the cable from the shield and ran the cable through a pool of the lubricant, working it in by hand.  Worked just fine. I believe this spray lubricant is still available.

 

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

John Ha wrote:

Following up what BobE said, there are a couple of places you can send your distributor to get the advance curve set up to match your engine.  One is Dan at the Mustang Barn.  I sent him the distributor for my 250 after I'd messed around with it for a few months trying to get it right, and I'm very pleased with how it works now. 

The other fellow that does it is on fordsix.com.  His screen name is wsa111, his company is Ambler Racing.  I have no personal experience with his work.

I messaged Dan at the Mustang Barn and he said they use a Old Sun machine which I looked up and I remember seeing these machines in shops when I was a kid. Found a few videos of people still using them.
Adjusting a Distributor on a vintage Sun Distributor tester
 

That Sun machine would be great to use.  Knowing what the optimum advance rate for an individual’s car is the critical part.  For most of us this becomes a trail and error exercise.  Including re-tuning the carburetor, and vacuum advance (if equipped) which each change.
The MSD distributor I have came with six springs of different values which gave me multiple combinations of springs to try, which I did until I found the best combination that worked for me.  MSD did provide a chart that indicated each combination of springs impact the rate of advance change. 
 

JohnHa - thanks for the response, looks like you've well on your way to getting good results.  

I would think 36 degrees full advance is OK.  What is the initial advance set at, and at what idle RPM?  One of the critical items is how quick the centrifugal advance comes into play and that is controlled by the springs on the counterweight.  I’d suggest plotting the advance vs. RPM at various RPM’s up to the full advance RPM.
When tuning the carburetor, this would be good info to have to help with overall tuning.
I have an MSD distributor, no vacuum advance, changing the counterweight springs created an obvious change in how the engine ran, and pulled, through the RPM range.  This distributor came with different advance springs. 

Thank you Billy and good luck with the tuning. 

RTM wrote:

BobE wrote:

RTM - if you are using the original headlight switch, the new wire harness connector has to be the same ... unless it was miss-wired at the factory.  

 
It's the Scott Drake upgraded dash harness. So yes it plugs into the factory headlight switch. What I'm getting at or wondering is if the electrical connectors in the Scott Drake harness are the same as the factory ones. If so I could use the factory block with the Scott Drake harness and the wires should stay in place better. Make sense?

At the headlight, I’d verify that 12v (OEM wire #25, Black-Orange) is available.  This wire is ‘hot’ all the time.  Then apply 12v to the wire that goes to the headlights (OEM wire # 15, Red-Yellow).  This wire goes the floor mounted hi-low beam switch.  From the hi-low switch, two wires go to the headlight, one for either the hi or low beam.
I emailed you a sketch I made of the headlight switch, hope this helps.  



 

FYI
Power for the gauges is not fused and comes from the back of the ignition switch, wire # 297 (Black-Green).  The 297 wire is then spliced with #30 wire (also Black-Green) that goes to the CVU unit on the back of the gauge cluster.