65fastback wrote:

Ok.. There must be a post min for me to be able to post pictures. I can get my picture loaded, but it won't post. Hopefully a few more posts by me will do the trick.

John

Here's another post to reply to!

Anyway, I reread your post and it seems like you covered everything (2 engines, 3 radiators etc.), but I only see one fan.  I think MS may have nailed it.  A fan needs two things to move air; rotation speed and pitch.  If the car runs, we know the first is good .

My mom's family room has an overhead fan, and that thing cranks along at a pretty good clip but moved almost no air.  So when I selected overhead fans for my bedrooms and family rooms, I looked at CFM specs.  The fans I bought will blow the toupe off Willard Scott.  The difference is pitch.  Back at mom's, I ended up getting a handful of washers and putting two under the screw on the leading edge of each blade and it made a big improvement although I think the increased pitch slowed the motor down a bit, something that won't happen in your car.

John

You didn't post actual temp numbers, do you have that?

If you're convinced you're not getting sufficient airflow, revisit the relationship between the fan and the shroud.  I believe one third of the fan should be outside the shroud.  Also, make sure there's no way air can get between the radiator and shroud.

John

Tubo wrote:

The Unisteer is a good unit. I've had mine since they came out. Keeps the standard turning circle, and doesnt feel over boosted.

How is the return to center?

John

MWM wrote:

Working on my A/C system and purchased a new drier for my stock '65 Mustang from a local mustang parts shop. When I removed the plastic cap form the fitting there was loud POW! And pressure that blew out. Scared the Mrs. And she came running downstairs. I don't remember these things being under pressure, if anything should be a vacuum? I am concerned that the drier is faulty? Looks new, but my ears a still ringing.... Should I return it?

I wonder if it wasn't overcharged with nitrogen.

John
 

wsinsle wrote:

Nothing worse than going through a few days of pain thinking it is all coming to an end, then finding you need surgery.

What they're going to do is go after the stone fragments with a scope through the twinkie.  Not a particularly invasive procedure but they sometimes leave in a catheter for a few days to help urination.

I'm hoping that before the procedure happens, Steve will pass the rest of the fragments.  My wife went from "shoot me now" pain to totally pain free in less than half an hour (on the third day after the litho).

John

Further info:

Going over the events of my wife's stone last Feb, we recall that the third day after the litho was the worst for her, but fortunately the last of it.  That Monday night when I got home from work my wife was in a chair in severe pain.  Nothing makes a person feel more helpless than watching someone in pain.  I headed for the shopping area looking for a couple of natural remedies that might help and hit the health food stores looking for Chanca Piedra which I read about on line.  I never found it locally but ordered some off Amazon along with another product called Stone Free, but I digress.

When I returned home empty handed some two hours later, she was in the chair afraid to move because her pain was (miraculously) gone.  She was afraid that if she moved the pain would return.  But fortunately, that was the last of it.  That third day was bad but she passed the last of the rubble and has had no pain since.  I seem to recall that mine was more like 48 hours after before pain free.  Our admittedly small sample size shows 48 to 72 hours of post litho pain.

Hopefully Steve will pass the rest today and be pain free from now on.

As for the homeo stuff, it arrived from Amazon but we haven't taken any of it.  Supposedly the Chanca Piedra is supposed to soften kidney stones.  The Stone Free stuff is supposed to turn it to sand.  We'll try it first sign of trouble.  Hopefully the bottles will remain unopened.

John

MustangSteve wrote:

Not over yet.  Oxycodone does absolutely nothing for my pain.  .

Yep.  Same for me and my wife.  Oxycodone did zip.  Stopped taking it completely.

There is a drug (don't recall the name) that supposedly helps dialate the plumbing that will give a little more room for the rubble to pass.  Ask the doc if you're still not out of the woods.

Mochaman wrote:

What happened to the procedures where they can bust them up with ultrasound?

It breaks up the stones in most cases, but not into a nice gentle powder.  The pieces that are left are often shards with sharp edges.  I passed a piece of blasted stone that had some meat on it.  Both my wife and I suffered for two days after the procedure.

John
 

You'll be fine today, tomorrow might be another story.  My wife and I both went through this.  The discomfort for the 48 hours as you pass the gravel afterwards is normal, so don't get nervous about it.  Hope they can blast it to powder.

John

Bullet Bob wrote:

That's true...the smoke would probably hide them.

BB

Spoil sport....
 

Hornman wrote:

John wrote:

Too much trouble IMO to build a harness from scratch when premeasured ones are available fairly reasonable. If I did build my own, I'd put in LEDs in the fusebox that would illuminate when a fuse blew.   In fact, I might even modify the Painless harness fuse box to do that.  That would be so cool that I'd be hoping to blow a fuse here or there...

John

 
John, look at the indicator fuses on Delcity.net. No need to install indicator LED's, just install indicator fuses. They have been around for a good while.

Yeah, but where's the fun in that?     Just to be different, I'll use bi-color LEDs.  When green the fuse is good and has power on it.  When red, it's blown..

John

I put a Painless kit in a 67, and it went in without a hitch.  I can't compare it to others as I've never used any other brand, but I can say the quality of the wire itself was excellent and every wire is printed with it's identification number along it's entire length.

John

lowercasesteve wrote:

The car bounds all over the fwy even though the wheel stays straight.

Does it do this without hitting any sort of bump, but just dart around the road crown?

Maybe it's in the back.  Any chance of a broken leaf in one of the rear springs? 



John

barnett468 wrote:

drake makes free moving urethane perches for less than than rollers.

 

Free moving in the hand doesn't equate to binding/drag when loaded with 1000lbs. 

John