5.0 EFI is the type of production style I was thinking of! I want to do efi on my '64 fairlane eventually and this method would def make it easier. thanks!

That is disappointing that the VT's rattle a lot and dont solve the problem over 65mph. My '90 GT with a older dynomax catback is a drone monster

TimC wrote:

midnite wrote:

[ The controller picking up a speed sensor input and adjusting boost based on speed is a nice touch too.

I'm not a fan of the auto-boost feature.  The sensor on my 97 Suburban failed, and on that vehicle, it defaults to full boost.  Obviously, there was no noted change at low speeds.  I learned about it's failure when I headed off on the highway.  Full boost at highway speed made that barge uncontrollable.  If adding to a classic Mustang, I would have to be certain that the combo of cobbled parts would default to NO boost upon failure of sensor or controller, as that was one of only a handful of moments in my life I would never want to repeat.....
 

 
was that a speed sensitive hydraulic steering? from '97 I would assume that it was. While I wont throw out the possibility of an electric column having a problem, I dont think it would be like that.

considering MDS's reputation, I wonder which is less reliable fake or real?

I really like the idea of the crown vic suspension in these trucks. especially with the irs would make an awesome daily driver.

I wish i could get bilsteins for my '64 fairlane. You mustang owners are lucky!

what fans and controller are you running? IMO the key to excellent working electric fans is using OEM fans such as the taurus, mark VII or contour etc and pairing them with a good thermostatically adjustable controller such as the DCC or new flexalite. I think the electric fan stigma comes from people using aftermarket fans that dont move enough air and cheap controllers that arent much more than a switch.

my '91 mustang LX 5.0 with trick flow heads/cam/intake had a taurus fan with a DCC controller and it stayed at 180 degrees perfectly no matter what the temp was outside.

Every proper forum on the internet is in this format. I think it just takes time for people to get used to it. I admittedly was not on the original fyi ford forum for very long, but coming from being on many other forums that use a similar format to the new format, I absolutely hated the old format. It was very hard to search and find information easily and hard to tell exactly who was talking to who. The quote feature on the VB style forums is great. So give it time everyone, I know you will eventually like it better and the tech will come

forum activity is definitely cyclical as well as has been mentioned.

would be interested but shipping to CA would probably be a killer

MarkinSC wrote:

midnite wrote:

You did well on the swap! There is a guy on corral.net that sells the whole wiring 4ga, fuse and the connectors to tap the stator wire kit for around $40 which is a decent deal, he also includes the required top bolt and nuts for the new alternator.

On my '90 GT I cut off the factory "D" plug, tapped the white wire into the new stator plug, and put ring terminals on the original black/orange wires and connected them with the new 4 gauge wire to the alternator. There is debate on whether or not you need to reuse the black/orange wires but they always remain hot so they at least need to be covered, common thought seems to be that it isnt hurting anything to connect them to the alternator since the majority of the power will go through the 4 gauge wire anyways. In the past I have just sealed them off and not noticed a difference.

Did you connect your 4 ga power wire to the battery? I have always connected it to the solenoid on the fender

I got my alternator on rockauto for $100. Brand new TYC for a 94 mustang 5.0, no core charge. Seems to be a nice peice at a good price! I also am running a slightly larger belt, the 3G pulley is bigger and doesnt interchange with the 2G pulley. Ive been debating buying one of the march kits that is supposed to overdrive the alt and underdrive the crank and wp, but not so sure its really worth it

I read NOT to connect those black/orang wires AT ALL.  You are creating 3 paths for the current to go: the 4 gauge AND both black/orange wires which only have a small fusible link to protect them. In one of those articles I posted it addresses that issue.  I know they are live, but they are to be taped up and moved to the side.

I connected right to the battery positive terminal.  The starter relay post is overcrowded as it is. 

I took off the march underdrive pullies that give you a smaller diameter crank pulley, and a larger diameter wp pulley.  Created too many issues for me with charging, ps g

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