I looked at prefabricated shrouds on line but could not source one that met my needs because of mounting points, thickness and hole location.
 It took me a couple of hours just to plan, draw,  measure, figure out the bend allowances and layout the shroud I made.
I still hate the looks that square Champion rad🤬 even though it works great.
The fabrication hours  involved on mine was well into the high double digits.

I did this on my 68, just to be a little different! 
The 67 has the exact same bezel but had all chrome and no paint, the 68 had black highlights.
A bit of attention to detail does make things stand out from the masses.a bit more.
 Mostly goes unnoticed by the uninitiated but  apparently  not by us enthusiasts . . .  so i'm told.

Just to add to the above , I have previously tried electric pusher and puller fans with poor results.

The top pivot of the vent windows usually needs some help with a bit of lubricant once in a while. I have a small  hypodermic filled with light oil and work the vent back and forth to get some lube up in there.
I gave the bottom pivot and pressure spring a healthy dose of lithium grease when installed the vent frame.
All that seems to make the vent open and close with not too much pressure on the lock lever attachment.

He has o/e ps now , there are parts down stream in the Borgeson set up that have to converted to manual configuration, Pitman arm included ,  which leads to more cost and complications.
It depends on the individuals skill levels on how much he wants to get involved.
If you want to get down to the nitty-gritty the EPAS out shines both no pump, no oil - no hoses, less under hood temps. etc.
Pick whatever spins your crank.😁

To simplify things and keeping out of the rabbit hole of headaches, my recommendation would be to send the whole entire original p/s to Dan Chock for a rebuild.
Dan is the Ford p/s guru and is renowned for in the classic Mustang world for his attention to detail and quality of his rebuilds.
He is very personable and will take the time to talk to you about your needs.
< chockostangclassicmustangs.com>

Nice job on the clevises, who made them, what grade of steel?
Much more impressive than the cast/forged items!

6sally6 wrote:

Rudi wrote:

Haul the Mustang to trips?? What fun is that?
Live dangerously,  keep your money and drive the Mustang, they are supposed to be for trips!😱

Better yet.......IF ya really think ya need a hauler, boy do I have a deal fer ewe !!!!
1972 F-250 long bed. 390 motor-4 speed tranny  that would prolly 'snatch-a-trailer-in-two' it has so much torque. Power steering front discs.......... an ASH TRAY & LIGHTER !
They just don't make new ones like this old boy !
Pull a classic WITH a classic !!! (the guys at Mustangsteve Bash won't make fun of ya this way)
6sally6
 

 
Still might need something to pull all that on a trailer as well🤪

Don’t use welding glasses unless they’re 14 shade, anything under that can cause permanent eye damage.
Even ISO certified viewing glasses recommend that a total of 3 minutes continuous viewing at one sitting.
I have an astrophotographer nephew that has travelled extensively around the world to take pictures of eclipses. He also has many published pictures of planets and nebulas that aremindblowingly. spectacular.

Good news Billy, so did you not need any further treatment? You are fortunate if you don’t.
After I had mine removed I got a weekly radiation treatment for 37 weeks. The cancer has not come back but neither has my stamina.

Convertible inner rockers are also a very good stiffening addition to coops and rapid posteriors,
Not really an option for a finished interior though

If the mounting surface is flat you could use 1/16” ABS or PVC sheet.

KeithP wrote:

I bought a set of transfer screws from LittlemachineShop.com. My concern was getting all 6 holes marked at the same time without the plate moving around while I hit it with a hammer and also getting all three pins on one side at the same height so they all mark at the same time. I guess if I got a couple holes marked I could drill them and bolt the plate on to mark the rest.

 
Use a jack under the plate to hold it up against the floor pan.
The trick is getting all the screws at the same level so all are in contact with the plate.