The speedometer on my restored 1964 Falcon rattled as though the new cable needed to be dry-lubed. The rattle became intermittent but did not disappear. Now the indicator is stuck at 40mph, and the rattle is gone. This appears to be a problem with the mechanism behind the speedometer and not the cable.  I would like to hear from any MS member who has had a similar problem. I would like to replace the mechanism and not the entire instrument cluster. The mechanism might be the same between a 1964-1/2 to 1965 Mustang and my 1964 Falcon. If the mechanism is similar, I might be able to swap out the assembly 
The suggestion concerning the type of lubrication would help the rattle but won't fix the stuck-at-40 needle.

I will repost as new thread. Thank you.
 

Gentlemen, I am stumped!
Thinking that the problem was due to a M/C pushrod that was too short, I purchased an adjustable rod. It required shortening to fit. Backtracking a bit, I tested the M/C on a vise and fluid from the rear brake bowl shot out as expected. When the M/C is tested in the car, barely a drop dribbles from the rear bowl port.
I installed the new rod and still no fluid comes out of the rear bowl port. The front brakes bleed properly, but I am unable to bleed the rears, since no fluid makes it out of the M/C when it is in the car.
Is it possible to have the rod too long? I have removed the rod from the car in case shortening is recommended.
What might the problem be? Since I checked the operation of the M/C on the bench vise, I thought the problem would be solved with a longer rod or at least with one of the proper length. These are manual brakes, no booster.
The new rod makes contact with the M/C piston, since there is no problem bleeding the front calipers.

 

After all the trials and errors I have experienced on my Falcon's restoration, I still have my self-esteem.
I set the m/c in a vice and proved that it works as it should, i.e. fluid shot from the rear brake port. The rod length is most likely too short. I have ordered the adjustable rod for 1964-1973 Fords.
I just need to set the proper length of the rod to solve this ridiculous issue.
I will report the results over the w/e.

I have owned the 1964 Falcon Futura for 33 years. In November 2024, I finally got it on the road. There are only a couple things to do for completion. It has the MS clutch kit installed. The 260 has been replaced by a rebuilt 1965 289. Quick performance 9-inch rear with 3.00 traction lock. Granada front disc brakes. Paint and body work self-inflicted. All mechanicals done by me, except for the 4-speed top loader rebuild and rear end assembly.

Will do, gentlemen. I will report back later this week. I just want to have a safe ride.

When I installed 1977 or 78 Granada disc brakes in my car (1964 Falcon) several years ago, I transplanted the brake pressure differential valve (which at the time I understood to be a combination/proportioning, along with a dual bowl M/C. For at least 10 years, that set up worked perfectly. 
During the Falcon's restoration, I installed a QUICK Performance 9-nch rear with drum brakes. I attempted to bleed the brakes; I found that I could not get pressure to the rear axle. I thought I had tripped the shuttle (sp) valve. That is, I believe this had occurred, if I had a bona fide proportioning valve. (see the attached photo of my valve).
I tried using a lock tool to keep the shuttle valve from blocking flow to the rear lines. Please check the photo of my valve and the link to PV 101 on the www.fordification.com website. This did not work. One method of shifting the shuttle valve to the neutral position is to bleed one front brake thereby returning the valve to the center allowing the lock tool to be placed during brake bleeding. The lock tool is inserted where the BRAKE warning light switch is located on the valve. The Falcon does not have a BRAKE warning light.
I want to replace the valve that is currently installed with a new part. I think I have located one that looks identical and is listed as a PV, but is it? 
From what I have read, this valve is not a PV and the shuttle valve in my old part is just stuck.
Suggestions and sanity checks welcome.

Link: Proportioning Valves 101 - FORDification.com

Photo: 

Gentlemen.
Attached are two photos: one of the pinion angle taken at the base of the differential; the other of the trans angle measured at the base of the top loader. If more clear photos need to be submitted, I can shoot them again this w/e. I want to know if the angles are acceptable. Thank you.



upload pic

 

Quick performance 9" rear housing. Traction lock 3.0 gears. Stock leaf springs, rear sway bar.  Changed to 15-inch wheels from stock 14 inchers. Ford toploader, small flange. 
I checked the angle of the tranny and pinion. The pinion is~5 degrees down. The tranny is ~2 degrees up.
I will check those angles one more time before I consider the visit to the chassis shop

Can someone tell me what to expect to pay a chassis shop to have the pinion angle set on my 1964 Falcon?

My 1964 Falcon uses the brake light switch operated by brake fluid pressure not the mechanical pedal-mounted type. The switch is mounted on the master cylinder. Changing to a pedal-mounted switch is not a viable option right now.
Brake light operation is intermittent, mostly inoperative.
The car's wiring is perfect to the brake lights. For instance, I can connect the two wires (+12VDC and ground) attached to the pressure switch and the brake lights illuminate. I suspected the brake light switch, so I purchased a new Standard Brand switch. To test the switch prior to installation, I connected an ohmmeter across the two terminals, then depressed the plunger inside the fluid port. There was no continuity between the terminals. Since the switch is a fluid pressure switch, I believe there should be continuity when the plunger is depressed. Am I missing something?
I returned the switch to O'Reilly's until I sort this out. They ordered another one for me should I choose to try again.
 

Gentlemen.
The valve adjustment issue has been solved, and the Falcon runs smooth and valve noise free.
I wish to express my appreciation for the encouragement and advice.
Sincerely,
Tom M.