Hope it turns out great, and in a timely fashion.  Nightmist is the original color of the Heap, beautiful color.  Bring it to the bash in September so we can all lean against it...LOL.
 

Nice, Bob.  Your usual clean work.

Billy;  Best brake pressure I could get with no pump and the cam I was running was 650 - 700 lbs at the caliper....not nearly enough.  I put on a custom bracket with a mechanical vac pump from a E450 diesel and a vac tank with check valve.  The pump held 17" of vac and I was then able to measur 1200 -1400 lbs of brake pressure.  Problem solved.
For you, unless you want to fab up a bracket, I would do as TKO suggests and find a boneyard electric vac pump and connect it through a check valve to a tank.  That should solve you problem.

BB1

Way better to find this stuff now, rather than five miles into the maiden voyage.  We all done been there.

My old JD has been mowing and pushing snow for 23 years.  I got the hyrostatic drive model which came with a one-lung Kohler engine.  651 hours, one fuel tank, one starter, one spark plug,  and regular oil/filter changes. 
Butt (TS&T), I wouldn't buy a new one.  Thought about a zero-turn but decided to keep the the JD afloat and spend the money on something fun....like car stuff.

BB1
 

What John Ha says....plus, back in the 60's when I worked as an Auto Eeee-Lec-Trician for Sears and Sawbuck, I bet I replaced over 50 of those hydraulic switches in the few years I works there.  Replace the switch.  If bypassing the switch makes the lights work, there ain't much else that can go wrong.  Maybe some weird issue with the master cyl, butt (TS&T), I doubt it.

Thanks Bob, I feel better now.

Like the GM solenoids of old...and maybe of today.

heyranch@aol.com wrote:

got a gear reduction starter for my 1969 mustang 302 engine but don't know how to wire it to starter solenoid. Can anybody help ?
 

First, welcome to the best place on the web,...or one of them.  Second:  you probably should start a new thread rather than adding a new subject to an existing thread.
Third:  I think those "mini" starters all have a built in solenoid that handles the high current and engages the drive gear.  I believe you can bypass the stock solenoid completely, except for the brown "coil bypass" wire by running a large cable from the battery side of the stock solenoid to the new starter.   And, run a jumper from the S terminal of the stock solenoid to the S terminal of the new starter.  That way when you turn the ignition switch to start, both solenoids will close but the stock one will only provide 12V for coil bypass when starting.

Or....You can run the stock "starter cable" to the big lug on the new starter and make a small jumper to go  from the big lug to the small "S" terminal of the new starter.  This is the simplest and will power the new starter and close it's solenoid when you turn to "start" and close the stock solenoid.

Hope this helps.

BB!

Brian wrote:

The 2025 Bash will be held September 18th-21st.
The Friday location will be at Whit Boyd's garage in Hurst, Texas

Additional information for Saturday and hotel information is coming soon.

There will also be a CLOSED Facebook group where all of the information will be shared as well.

Click below to join:
https://www.facebook.com/share/g/19fMcbxQMY/

Brian;  Please post ALL Bash info here also.  Not all of us bother with FB, Instacrap, Titter, ToK-TiK, etc.  Thanks.

Good to see you back.  Did you ever find that Vert you were looking for
BB1
 

Yup, Rudi.  They tell you to run the machine in reverse and start at the relief butt (TS&T) with a screw-on chuck I get a bit nerval about that.  I just turn a relief at the upper end and engage the back gear to run it real slow.  Disengaging the split nut stops it just fine...no issues.
BB1

 

Thanks for the pic, Bob, I think of Ted every day.  Still miss him so much.  The folks who made it to our Bash in 2016 certainly got a taste of his fine work set out in the shop Saturday night.

BB1