I recently installed a AFR gauge from Speedhut.  The harness that runs from the gauge to the o2 sensor is way to long.  I have the gauge in my console and bundled up the excess but wondered if there would be any issues with how the gauge reads if i cut some of the excess out and reconnect the wires with high quality butt connectors and heat shrink?  would definitely look nice and i won't end up with a bundle of wires under my console.  thoughts?
 

I have the American Autowire harness in my 67 and apparently, they use a universal gm dimmer switch with their kit.

It looks just like the original, but the plug is slightly different, and you can't mount it in the factory location. The plug and connection would require it to move away from the kick panel maybe another 1/2"-3/4".  MY car has a new floor so i have to drill new holes to mount dimmer any way but another thing is the wires to the switch are not really long enough to route them as i would like.  

Trying to decide how to proceed.  I'm not sure if i can untape the harness and get more length on these wires. If they come from the fuse panel that probably won't work but if they come from the headlight switch that would get me more length. Anyone know if they come from the headlight switch or fuse panel or both?
 
I debated buying a new pig tail and ford replacement dimmer switch to solve all of the issues but looking at the pig tails i'm guessing they are cheaply made with thin probably 20g wires.

anyone else deal with this when installing the AWW harness?

My factory plugs are in decent shape but my original harness is good as well and didn't want to butcher it.

I'll probably sell the original harness to recoop some of my money.

I may try the flat 3 way trailer connector. If they fit the lights i see they sell just a short section for around $5.00.  Jus need to make sure they fit the lights.  The wires won't be the right color but i could splice in with a butt connector and heatshrink near the connector that way original wire color right up close to the connection.

 

Anyone know where you can find the pig tail that connects to the driving light/turn signal on a 67 Mustang?

The wiring harness side is a bullet connector/ 2 female 1 male.

I would like to leave the connector on my new lights and crimp new connectors to my harness if possible.

if not I'll have to cut off the connector from the light and use a deutsch connector to make the connection.  I would rather just crimp and heat shrink the pigtail to my harness if possible.

thanks for the suggestions

 have the hole opened up to a decent size since i am installing the fox lower boot.

Hard to get to the shifter to give it a good whack with anything.  Can't jack it up high enough in the hole to get from the top and can't drop it low enough to get to it from the bottom.  I've taken some pieces of hard wood and a ball peen hammer to try and catch the edge where it overlaps the trans but that hasn't worked.  I don't have a brass drift. Kind of hard to believe i don't since i'm a tool finatic.  Guess thats something i need to add to my aresenal.

Haven't never seen rtv hold something so tight.

I should kick myself in the butt for not swapping in the new shifter before installing the motor and trans.  I'm sure if it were out of the car i could pop it off easily.

I ordered a pro 5.0 today so hopefully it will arrive early next week.  

Now i just need to find a shifter boot that i can mount over the fox lower boot and still fit/work with my console

 

so for you guys that installed the lower boot how did you mount the upper boot? does the upper boot cover all of the lower boot and fasten to the hump/floor?

I'm running a nice console I got from Mustangs unlimited and thinking about getting a smaller boot that i can mount to the console or should i mount one to the lower boot or over the lower boot and just pull it up through the console opening.

any recommendations for a good quality boot would be great.
 

I just got the lower shifter boot in.  Its pretty large barely fits the width of the tunnel.  Assuming carpet will fit and cover well without any problems.

Did you guys trim up the fox boot any or just install as is?

I haven't trimmed my shifter hole but with the TKO 600 in my 67 the shifter is very close to passenger side of the original shifter opening.  I do need to trim this area a bit.  Don't really want to cut the opening anymore than i have to.  

I think I'll get boot position on. Drill 4 holes and use some of those threaded nutserts so i can remove easily.

 

How many of you are running a lower shifter boot to seal up the shifter to floor opening and what car did you get it from?  I think I read some were using fox body lower shifter boots.

I'm also trying to decide where to drill a hole to run my back up light, electric speed wires and air fuel wires thru.

Any input?

 

So I'm not installing the neutral safety switch at least for now.

Now i have to figure out if I need to change any wiring with the AWW harness to allow the engine to start without the switch wired in.

The harness has two puple wires for the neutral safety switch.  I know the purple wire does have 1 termial to the s terminal of the starter solenoid.

I think on my coupe when i installed the 5 speed i used a jumper to complete the circuit.

Anyone used the AWW without the neutral switch?

How many of you that have converted to a tremec TKO or T5 have wired in a neutral safety switch?

Did you use a relay and if so where did you mount it?

I think factory stick shift cars didn't have neutral safety switch so thinking about not wiring one up.  Seems like something else that could go out and prevent you being able to drive the car.

 

thanks I appreciate your info and help.

I found the below online and ordered them. Once they arrive I'll see if they will work if not I'll probably do as you describe. Attach the deutsch connectors to the AWW harness then another deutsch connector running to driverside headlight and near that connector splice in for the passenger side.  The wire should be sized properly as that is how AWW supplies it.  They unfortunately plan for you to run the harness directly to headlight plug on driver side and connect two wires to the terminal in the headlight connector to make the piggyback.  

In that scenario to remove front shelby nose of fenders you have to unplug headlights and remove harness.  Seems like they cheaped out on this aspect of the harness.