Not that it matters too much but F-150's ran a residual pressure valve well in to the 90's (until they dumped the drums I believe). Not sure how much later, anyway I agree with Steve in that the adjustment sounds off. I remember when doing mine I always lubed the adjusters and then made sure the correct adjuster is on the correct side. I would also run the adjuster out far enough where the drum would slide over the shoes, but had pretty good resistance because I hate spinning that adjuster through the slot. Also, and not 100% sure that this made a lot of difference, but I would apply the parking brake several times as well as backing up and then stopping. That always seemed to get them pretty even.

Sorry if I am repeating a lot of what has been said, but I think it is important to reinforce.

F-150 RPV for trivia  https://www.f150forum.com/attachments/f10/260964d1381187273t-master-cylinder-question-image-3289741942.jpg

Ron68 wrote:

BobE wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

IMO that guy is a tool.  In fairness I've never met him, and that could just be the way he is portrayed on TV to inject mock drama into the show, but the only reason to watch that show was Aaron.  When he left that was it for me. 
 

Totally agree.

Yup. It's all about the drama. Boyd Coddington was the same way. Gotta have the contrived drama. And the Orange  County Choppers show with the dad and son who were always at each other's throats. Why is it that every time they take on a job, they are always under the gun to get it done in a ridiculous amount of time. They're always running late, yet the build always gets done on time. Drama, drama, drammmmma.
 

That  template is used in so many shows now. Real estate, house renovations, vehicle restoration, Street Outlaws, etc, etc, etc. For once I wish they'd have a series that showed a years long restoration/build and no fighting. It'd probably have no ratings, but seeing "real world" would be nice.
 

RTM wrote:

I don't live in Texas but is that really a practical item or just for looks?

Nothing practical about that...

Brents65 wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Brents65 wrote:

I reached out to Circle D and they recommend a non lock up 2800 stall converter. Do you guys know what is meant by a 9” converter or 12” converter? I’m pretty close to purchasing everything and want to be sure parts are right.

Yes, its literally the diameter of the converter.  My understanding is higher stall converters tend to be smaller because its easier to get a higher stall out of a smaller diameter converter.  Also, they are more race oriented, so moving the weight towards the center of the crank helps the engine rev more easily.  I wouldn't think a 2,800 stall would be a 9" converter.  Usually 9" converters are 3,000+ rpm stall. 
 

thank you.  I wound up buying a 9.5” non lock up converter and AOD. I just feel I will like it better for cruising with the extra gear. Thank you everyone for your input. 
 

That's awesome, you won't be disappointed with anything Circle D.

I told a buddy of mine that unlike Tyson this old man got it done this weekend Got the motor in my red Lightning solo, this one is pretty much a race truck. My black one will be getting a bit tamer motor, hope to get one of them to a Bash some day. Yes, it's still a small block Ford



 

TKO is right, I would give Circle D a shout, go over your combo and see what they recommend. They are great to deal with and are located in Houston.

Mochaman wrote:

It almost look AI generated. 
 

Yeah, I did some googling and a lot of folks are guessing that the car was edited post production to avoid any sort of Ford royalties/credits/whatever. No idea factual that might be.
 

Greg B wrote:

Looks like some nice too shelf stuff!

But I am curious, because I will admit this is an area I know little about? Just exactly how does this dual sump pan work? What I'm looking at, that seems really steep in the front. How does any oil that settles there find its way to being recirculated? I get that it's designed for drag racing, which make the baffles and windage on the rear side self explanitory. Other than a strong takeoff, how does that front sump serve any purpose? On a stock type pan, you can kind of see in the design how acceration forces oil toward the rear. Plus it's not as steep. Please understand I am not knocking this; I truly want to learn what it is I may be missing here. To me, from what I see it kind of only serves as a reservoir. Forum, please educate me here.

No offense taken You're right there is always some oil present in the front sump until an external force acts on it like acceleration, a really steep incline, simply splashed by other oil, etc. And Steve is right it does give clearance for the oil pump as well and helps a with capacity as both sumps can be a shallower, but overall hold more oil.

There's probably a lot more in-depth explanations, but that's how my simple brain understands it

That. Is. Awesome!

TKOPerformance wrote:

You keep saying HEI, but HEI is a bowtie term.  I mention this because the #1 cylinder location on a Ford and Chevy are different  In the same vein, a Ford distributor advances timing by spinning the distributor counter clockwise, because the rotor spins counter clockwise.  Not saying you don't know all this, but just trying to cover all bases. 

I was ASSuming it was one of those Ford setups with the HEI looking cap.
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Raymond_B wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Most tracks are going to tech your car and require you to have an overflow bottle.  I've never had a problem with a car overheating at the strip.  You typically are not running it hard enough for long enough, unless you're really hot lapping it because there's no one there.  Normally you make a pass and then will have to wait 10-60 minutes to make another.  Usually you have to run the car between passes to ensure it stays at operating temp from my experience.

Road courses are different.  But with lots of air flowing through the radiator if the cooling system is new I couldn't see an issue cropping up.  If it doesn't overheat on the street I doubt it would at the track.  I never had an issues years ago when I used to run SCCA events. 
 

Most tracks nowadays will not let you run with antifreeze simply because it's a PITA to clean up. Whether or not you have antifreeze is not something tied to safety equipment, it is a track choice.

I believe you've been to Cecil Country Dragway in MD, which is my local track.  Not too concerned about teching the vehicles (one reason I won't go on Friday nights anymore, someone's junk always blows up and shits the track down for an hour)

SCCA stuff I ran was typically just in parking lots with cones.

Good to know some tracks have actual rules

Cecil is where us Lightning guys have Spookfest (play on Halloween), won't be going this year because all my stuff is is pieces. A good buddy of mine lives just down the road from Atco, so sad it closed. 
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Most tracks are going to tech your car and require you to have an overflow bottle.  I've never had a problem with a car overheating at the strip.  You typically are not running it hard enough for long enough, unless you're really hot lapping it because there's no one there.  Normally you make a pass and then will have to wait 10-60 minutes to make another.  Usually you have to run the car between passes to ensure it stays at operating temp from my experience.

Road courses are different.  But with lots of air flowing through the radiator if the cooling system is new I couldn't see an issue cropping up.  If it doesn't overheat on the street I doubt it would at the track.  I never had an issues years ago when I used to run SCCA events. 
 

Most tracks nowadays will not let you run with antifreeze simply because it's a PITA to clean up. Whether or not you have antifreeze is not something tied to safety equipment, it is a track choice.

Love it! I am so jealous, I am jumping through hoops right now trying to figure out how to build a 30x30 in Fort Worth. I really just need to move to the country...