Oh Craigslist, if this is anyone here I am not going to apologize if you share whatever you've been drinking

I had a pulley made for my Lightning so I could keep the stock serpentine setup, but run an SN95 water pump and front cover (long story, but blower related), anyway, having ASP make it cost me >$200.00 just FYI.

I use Discount Tire pretty much exclusively. My niece stayed with us for a while and between her and my wife picking up nails it felt like we were there almost weekly. DT fixed the flats for free and only one time, legitimately, said we needed the tire replaced (screwdriver through the sidewall). Always great service, so they have me as a loyal customer for stock tires. 

rpm wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

BobE wrote:

RTM - you might want to consider installing petcocks in the block water drain holes.  Those plugs can be difficult to remove,especially on the driver's side. 

I have done this on any engine I've built for 2 decades now, and If you ever have to drain the block, or want to properly flush the cooling system they come in very handy. 
 

 
Who makes a quality petcock today. Ever one I've used in the last 5+ years has worked exactly once. Then it turns into a plug.

I have used and love Fumoto's

https://www.fumotousa.com/
 

Nos681 wrote:

Since you mentioned it Raymond…

Are those LS turbo headers with SBF flanges?

I have some buddies that did the LS header swap, they actually worked out fairly nice. But mine are from Stainless Headers, it's their "modular" turbo header https://www.stainlessheaders.com/ford-bolton-turbo-headers
 

Figured I post up some pics of the truck after doing a small bit of work to it. I was making good progress getting wiring done and some other assembly, but in a bit of a holding pattern now as I've been talking with a shop to do my cage. No way I wanted to leave any electronics in the truck with all the welding going to be done, I pulled that all out to be safe. Decided to go with one of the new Motion Raceworks fuel pressure regulators and mount it to the fuel rail. So far it's working out really nice and is waaay smaller. If anyone needs a brand new Aeromotive regulator let me know! I also made a little bracket for the boost control MAC valves and got those wired up as well, if you look close at where the MAC valves are mounted you might be able to see a little magnetic zip tie mount I made by 3D printing the base then gluing a magnet to it. Works great!















 

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

I wanna run the 1984 powered by ford covers

When I used them on my 95 Lightning I had to run Ford Motorsport valve covers, they would not clear under the stock valve covers. Although I do not know if the 1984 covers have more clearance.

Most likely you're going to have to change the dist gear. Give your engine builder or cam provider a call with your cam part# and information. They will tell you what dist gear to run. Don't guess, don't let people tell you that they are all the same for certain years or for certain cams. This is one of the areas when aftermarket parts are installed that things get a bit complicated, but your engine builder along with the cam provider will set you straight.

Thinking of free things to check besides ensuring that your booster's check valve is good and making sure the booster itself isn't leaking as well as the vacuum hose going to the booster. I remember back in the day doing things like adjusting the carb mixture screws to get highest vacuum and increasing timing, but that will affect the rest of the curve so careful on that one. Lastly I'd check your idle speed as well, sometimes folks want it real low to get the chop chop and that doesn't help with idle vacuum  

I know nothing about the quality of these, but they fit your price requirement. Personally I'd go with CalTracs, but they are $395.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-performance-traction-bars-pair-1965-1966/p/TMB8/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAz6q-BhCfARIsAOezPxnCY1Wj0GSVlXzbHmBYLsJHMXv30yPjc4emUi3DRAgK9qHx-LuXyOwaApmjEALw_wcB

Rudi wrote:

My hydraulic pump experience is more industrial than automobile but I have learned that cast iron bodied units far outlast aluminum ones.
As far as power steering goes, I don’t know why more guys don’t go electric. To each his own I suppose.

Electric PS is pretty awesome, however there are some caveats when retrofitting. Electrical and charging system need to be up to snuff, the elec PS pump pulls a good amount of current especially when going full lock. They also need to be speed controlled or at least locked in to a specific duty cycle although there's aftermarket controllers being made now that will vary the assist based on vehicle speed, **but** that requires a vehicle speed sensor.

I've got a Mazda MX3 pump on my bench along with an aftermarket controller that I was going to use on my 95 Lightning because space was an issue when crafting up a turbo kit.

There's also the electric motor setups that are column mounted, but those appear to be expensive!
 

It's best to measure pinion angle off the flat of the rear end yoke not the housing. Maybe they are the same or maybe not, but pinion yoke is what you want as your reference.

Here's a pretty good calculator to use. You input all your recorded angles and go from there as you really cannot just say "the rear needs to be X" without knowing the relation of the others.

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/driveline-operating-angle-calculator

TKOPerformance wrote:

One of the many reasons I don't like automatics.  Those E4ODs are HEAVY. 

Since this vehicle is more race oriented thank goodness it has a C6, doing that with an E4OD would have been the end of me!