I spec'd one of those out with the brakes, suspension, and rear end I would want plus powder coat. Just under 25k!!!

I had extended warranty on my wife's Jeep Commander a few years ago, thank goodness we unloaded that POS. Anyway, they are very hard to deal with and will put you through the ringer if you try to file a claim. Her water pump went out and I had to provide documentation that I had regularly services the cooling system, including flushes at the OEM schedule. I think they were surprised that I did So they paid.

Here's my opinion, either buy brand new with a factory warranty so you start with a vehicle that **you** know the maintenance on and then as it gets older and out of warranty you switch over to taking care of it yourself OR buy something really old and easy to work on, because buying something in between where you do not know the maintenance first hand and is not so easy to service is a gamble and could be expensive.

 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Every source I've read said that while a melonized gear is not required on a cast iron cam; you can certainly run one without issue.  They were designed for ductile iron and steel roller cams.  So, if you have a flat tappet cam made from cast iron and an iron distributor gear you don't need to change anything (or a ductile iron or steel cam with a cast gear pressed onto it).  If the cam is ductile iron or steel you need a different gear, and a melonized gear would be a better choice than brass, which you'll be lucky to get 10,000 miles from.  Composite is another option, but are a no-no on an engine with a HV or HP oil pump. 

The cam in my 427w has a billet core, I called CompCams and the guy looked up the part# and recommended melonized which has worked flawlessly. I only say this as I refuse to trust anything (especially internet recommendations, no offense) except what the cam manufacturer recommends after my mishaps. 
 

TKOPerformance wrote:

Raymond_B wrote:

MS wrote:

The point of a muscle car is to go fast. How is the fact it happens to be electric contrary to that point?

I share this view, I mean hot rodders since the beginning have been innovators. Alternate fuels, bodies, engines, chassis, etc, etc. It's always been about coming up with an edge. While there's plenty of political, practical, environmental reasons electric might not be the future you cannot deny that they can go really fast, maybe not that far, but hell neither does a gasser with a 5 gal tank... I can remember my young stupider (is that a word?) days when street racing and getting caught using NOS. CHEATER is what people yelled
 

Because old cars are supposed to be visceral.  The sound of a cammed out engine, the exhaust that shakes the pavement.  EVs have none of that.  Innovation?  Sure, I'll concede that point, BUT cost was also always a part of it.  That's what led guys to drop a flathead out of a wreck into their jalopy to go fast rather than just buying a new car with a flathead in it.  For less than the cost of the EV conversion I could build a twin turbo small block that would be faster and have longer range.  So if there are three boxes to check it gets 1/3.  Not terribly exciting to me, when its easy to check 3/3. 
 

Everyone has their own definition. Here's an example, I HATE ratrods, I think they are an excuse to do half-arse crappy work under the guise of being creative. But I do not go running around shouting that they have no souls or should be shot.
 

When you look up clickbait in the dictionary that guy's picture is in the definition

Like anything you can certainly go down a rabbit hole with wiring. When I installed the Megasquirt in my Lightning I built the entire engine harness myself. I started with Weatherpack, but those can get really big for multi-pin connectors. Then I went Metripack, which are good, but I wanted better. Finally I spent the money on a good Deutsch crimper and connectors and have only used those ever since. If it is something mission critical like a crank sensor I go here (https://racespeconline.com/) and get real Deutsch stuff along with their solid pins. For "less important" items I snag the Amazon equivalents and don't look back. Also been using this for sheathing as it is really nice! https://racespeconline.com/collections/loom-supplies-1/products/high-temp-fiberglass-sleeving. Then of course I like to use a quality adhesive lined heat shrink.

I've had great experience with my Injector Dynamics ID1700X's they come with a hefty price tag, but have been rock solid and a dream to tune(on gas and E85) since day 1.

Nos681 wrote:

I appreciate your knowledge about all of this Raymond.
I appreciate it.

Speed density is like “serpentine belts”…many assume serpentine means CCW rotation.

What can factory speed density (sequential or batch) support?
Idle-5500 (6k max) would be my application in NA torm.

You’ll want a good cam grinder to make something specific to your combo, back in the day Cam Motion used to do them for us SD Lightning guys. But the cam is the easy part, you’ll need a way to tune it as I do not think the stock stuff will take you very far with even mild performance upgrades. Do you already have all the Fox body EFI wiring? If so DIYAutotune and Stinger Performance offer Fox body plug and play setups that will plug in to the stock EEC-IV 60 pin plug. You’ll need to wire in a wideband, but other than that you can use the stock harness. You can stay SD, but have a really tunable setup and be able to make pretty much any engine mod you want.

I've heard nothing but good things about Lizard Skin, when/if I ever do another vehicle it will be with that.

What MAF are you going to run? I ASSumed a Fox body MAF, but wouldn't that be awfully tall stacked vertically?

I need one of these *and* a lift, too bad the chair is insanely priced.

https://youtu.be/XSrqn-t0KbQ?feature=shared

MS wrote:

I agree the whine is terrible. I have gone through five rear ends with only ONE that did not make noise. It was built by Phil at 9” Nodular. Then I sold it to Ramses, and he never drives his car. So, the last one I bought had those new design Stealth gears and it still makes noise. It was built by Strange.
I quit counting how much money I have blown on 9” rear ends. My car sounds like a dump truck as far as gear noise, and I hate it.
I did put a chinese Speedway 3.50 traction lock nodular case in my 69, and it is quiet. Maybe they figured it out. The yoke seal failed in 500 miles, but a new seal fixed it.

To be 100% honest it was your troubles that piqued my interest in this setup. But it sounds awfully pricey.