bought a 67 cpe, 289, C4 a couple months ago.  A previous owner installed the SSBC power disc conversion kit (A132-A). 
https://ssbc-usa.com/products/a132-a?rq=yr_1967~mk_ford~md_mustang~ha_base
The guy i bought it from hasn't used it much in the past 4 yrs..  Now I'm battling some front brake drag.  The fluid was badly contaminated so i flushed it thoroughly with a pressure bleeder.  It is now clear & bright at all 4 corners (factory drums still on the rear).

I've also removed both calipers, disassembled the piston (single) and used 600 & 1000 grit wet sand paper to clean up the cylinder and bore.  I've done similar work to the slide pins.  This past weekend, i disassembled the master cylinder and cleaned out the bore like I did with the calipers.  

Even though I had a great 20 mile test drive on Sunday, the problem came back again today.  I had to slow down to about 35mph to ease my way home this evening.  

I checked the temperatures after I got home and the discs were both hot (300+ deg), but at least they were only about 10 degrees different so i don't think the calipers are hanging up otherwise one would probably have been much hotter than the other.

So... Before I just start replacing parts (calipers & master cylinder), is there anything else to look at?  Could the power booster hang up somehow?  The distribution block appears to be original.  Rear drums are working fine.

As always, any input is welcome. 

 

Bracket looks good to me.  I think I'll do this in stages... I'm going to get the Borgeson "Upgrade" kit that uses the ford factory pump. Mine seems to be working properly (quiet and not leaking) so we'll see how it goes.

I'm still learning this car's quirks & personality.  If the factory pump becomes an issue, I'll upgrade it later.  

What are the recommended mods for the borgeson mounting bracket?

 

Any concerns with the strut rods NOT having any bushings in them?  Without any give (i.e. rubber bushings), do these types of strut rods create a rough ride over bumps, etc.?

I've got a hint of valve ticking on my 289.

What's the preferred method to adjust the valves? 

I'm not opposed to doing it with the engine running as i have an old pair of steel VC's that could be cut open to minimize the mess.

mm

I took my daily driver (67 cpe, 289)  off the road just before Thanksgiving.  She now has a T5 transmission, 3.25 posi diff, new leaf springs and new carpet.  I also added sound deadener under the rear seats and behind the interior quarters.  I've got about 35 miles of test drives on it all, and I believe the car is ready to return to regular service.

The insulation I added has definitely helped with interior noise.  So much so, that now i'm acutely aware of how much wind noise there is in the car.  The doors both got new weather stripping a few years ago, but clearly there's some gaps that need attention.  

Does anyone have suggestions on how to best locate and eliminate as much of this as possible?


 

These are both 4" gauges. 

Best of all is that the metal retaining ring for the factory lens can be gently massaged to make a nice tight fit around the body of the gauge, making it very easy to install.  Also, the chrome trim on the autometer gauge fits perfectly inside the stock chrome trim.

You'll notice in the photo that i glued one of the smaller diameter "buttons" to the center of the Autometer lens as a tribute to the original gauges.

Yeah, it felt odd just before "popping"...

Just glad that it's an easy fix.

 

cgomate wrote:

 



That's better

Glen:  I'll measure it this evening and post my findings.

Rufus:  The brake pedal is mounted in the upper position, but i'd be concerned about relocating it (if that's possible) as that might change the geometry of the brake push rod.

TKO:  Assuming i end up using this pedal, i'm already lined up to have someone weld the quadrant on it for the MS clutch cable kit, so relocating the pedal pad is an option.

Bolted:  Yup, i'll trim the brake pedal pad, but not until after i've determined that everything else will work.  

I've finally started the T-5 swap on my 67 Cpe (C4/289).  Its a factory power brake car.

I've had a Scott Drake clutch pedal in a box for a few years now (c7zz-7519-a) but during a test fit, i found that it sits a good 3/4 inch lower than the brake pedal in the "foot off" position.

What's the deal?  Do i modify this one, or look for a correct fit?

mm 

A guy on Craigslist has 69/70 seats with TMI foam (sport) & upholstery and wants to trade for my 67 stock seats.

 
 
YES / NO? Opinions?