602Raptor wrote:

@Gearz
Where did you get the flex lines from your master cyl. to the distribution block? They look like a great solution for someone who is a newb at bending lines.

They're Fragola PTFE hoses, ordered them from Summit Racing. 

I will give it a try and see if it gets any better.
I'm out of the country the next twelve days but will report any results later after returning.
Thanks again.

Hornman wrote:

500 psig is about what I would expect with a 1.0" unboosted Master Cylinder. That is enough pressure for drum brakes. Your four wheel disc brakes need about 1200 psig. You said the brake pedal "just stops", which tells us that the MC is not leaking. A leaking MC, either internally or externally, will result in your foot slowly sinking to the floor when you are applying the brakes.

The system is far from 1200 Psi on the rear brakes, I don't think the MC is leaking a lot, it doesn't show either , just a tiny bit of moist near the clip that keeps the piston in. I wonder if there's anything else that could be wrong with it. One of the circuits that fails causing the pedal travel to be longer (?)

Hornman wrote:

It sounds like your MC is fine, but the Brake Booster is not working. Bob makes a good point about the vacuum, you need at least 17" of vacuum for the booster to work properly. It is not unusual for a rebuilt Booster to be faulty.

At first I thought my previous brake booster (9") was at fault so I replaced it with the Reman. it didn't made any difference at all. That's why I do not suspect the booster or believe in a non sufficient vacuum problem as first suspect.

Hornman wrote:

Check the vacuum at your booster. If it does not get to 17", then you either need a vacuum canister, a vacuum pump, or both. If the engine is making enough vacuum, then the booster is not boosting.

The booster seems to be working at least enough to let the pedal drop a little after starting the engine, just like it should, I'll will try to measure the vacuum on the hose to be sure.

Even without sufficient vacuum, the car should still brake fully and the pedal should feel like a normal brake pedal (although a lot more leg pressure is needed) right ?
It's kinda hard to explain but if I have the engine running and I step on the pedal it goes straight 2/3th down with hardly any resistance and then it feels like it hits something on 2/3th , almost as if

Hi All,

After reading almost every topic i could find here on the board, on the world wide web and after numerous attempts to bleed my new brake system in every possible way , I still don't have enough pressure on the system.
Recently the brake booster was replaced for a remanufactured OEM one, this changed absolutely nothing.
I slowly start to suspect the master cylinder although it is new and was never used before.

If I push the brakepedal with engine off, the pedal will go down 2/3th of the way, rear brake line pressure is around 500 Psi.
If I push the brake pedal with engine running, it goes 2/3th of the way down easily and if you press it a little harder, it feels as if you press it against a stop or against something hard and solid, rear brake line pressure stays at around 500 Psi but rises a small bit more if you really stand on the pedal.
The brake pedal doesn't pump up if you press it a couple times and drops a little when the engine starts like it should.
Both the M/C and Booster are never used before, Vacuum booster check valve is OK and attached straight to a vacuum tower in a manifold runner with noting else attached to it.  If you drive the car, it does brake but in a terrible and absolute insufficient way.

I' have swapped my 1970 Mustang 4 corner drum brake system years ago to a Granada front disc swap and now to a complete Mustang Steve 2008GT disc brake swap set up, front and rear.
Before the Swap it braked really good !

What's installed...
-Front 13,2" GT Rotors (New) with 2011-2012 Mustang GT brake calipers (New-Roush Take off's)
-Rear 2005-2013 GT-V6 OEM rear calipers and rotors (new)
-9" Brake Booster New (Reman. Cardone)
-Master Cylinder, aluminum 1" bore, New (Bought @ Mustang Steve in May 2014, never used)
-Original 1970 Drum Brake distribution block (also see topic-->) http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=6342
-New Ni-Cop Brake lines
-New Flex brake lines from MC to distribution block and from brake lines to calipers.
-New a

FYI

18x8" US Mags Ramblers U111 do not clear front 13.2" brake calipers, a 0.2" (5mm) spacer is needed.
18x9.5" US Mags Ramblers U111 just enough clear rear brake calipers (approx2mm free play)

 

Bargain !!
I'd tried it with 1970 and it worked.

Wonder if these would fit and clear 13.2 GT brakes.
Weren't there people around here with 17" Classic Cragars in this combo ?
 

Thanks for the quick reply Jerseyjoe and Steve, just what I thought and hoped for
Always good for a little peace of mind to ask for a 2nd opinion before the tools come out.

Hope to have it all figured out now, I'll make sure to upload some pics once it's all working.

Mitch.

My aluminum radiator in the '70 Mustang is a direct fit from DeWitts, they come with both 1" and 1-1/4" tube size.
Nice welds, strong quality and if you do paint it black it kinda looks stock OEM.
And above all, lifetime warranty and Made in Michigan, not in asia.
http://www.dewitts.com/

The Top Bracket in Steve's picture is the stainless steel one.

Hi all, got a wheel to add to the fitment list.
Boyd Coddington Moon Eyes wheels 17x7 and 13.2 GT rotors/callipers will not fit without spacers.
Have to order some spacers and check again.

Mitch.


It's the inner hump part of the rim that you see here which is interfering with the calliper.






 

Nice clean looking car.
The picture of the disc-disc MC installed is very helpfull, just ordered the exact same with the engine side brakelines.

Mitch