wsinsle wrote:

I'm not sure how PAINLESS does it but I have American Auto Wire (AAW). My guess is they are similar They have a wire from the start switch to the (Neutral Safety Switch) NSS . Then from the NSS to the start solenoid. Tie them 2 together and it will work. No NSS in volved.  . 

Thanks for your input. Sounds like both harnesses are the same. I did splice the two together and then ran the wire to the S post on the relay (not sure if I need to do that or not). I’m going to remove the NSS from the trans and plug the inlet just to clean it up. 

I’m 67 years old. Never had a car with neutral safety and really don’t NEED it now. Looks like I’m going to by-pass the switch…thanks for all of your suggestions.

Can’t figure out how to respond to individual posts but thanks for all the advice.

NOS681- good catch on the wires from the NSS. The switch does have separate  power and ground and when you watch the actual video from Modern Driveline  it does address both connections. 

Now, if one wanted to add a safety switch to the clutch pedal on a vintage mustang, is there a switch that can be retrofitted to the pedal somehow? And how would it wire? Would the power go from the ignition switch to the clutch switch to the starter solenoid bypassing the NSS on the trans?

Thanks for your input.  I guess I should have mentioned the trans is going in a 65 Mustang so no electric switch on the clutch.  I found a pretty good video on MDL’s website with a diagram.  Painless doesn’t give much more info other than to hookup wire #919 to NSS. Does this wiring look correct? I have a universal relay to rune it through. 

Came across this photo from 2012 MS Calendar while going through box in garage after moving to AZ a year ago. The car is now waiting for an opening at the body/paint shop. 

Anybody using or have input for Malwood’s under dash clutch master cylinder assembly? https://www.malwoodusa.com/hydraulic-under-dash/malwood-usa-1964-1966-mustang-hydraulic-master-cylinder-clutch-pedal-kit-billet-reservoir/  
I was at Barrett Jackson last week and finally pulled the trigger on a Blueprint 302 Cruiser engine/trans package but the trans is set up with McLeod hydraulic throw out with internal slave. I had already set my car up for MS cable clutch (which I will be selling) a few years ago. With the brake booster and SSBC Prop Block, I have no room on the firewall and it looks like Malwood solves my problem. Any thoughts?

Perfect! I’ll check the the fuse block. Thanks MS

Perfect! Thanks for the quick reply.

I came across the forum around 2001 while surfing the internet after I bought a ‘66 convertible. That car in gone (divorce) but still plugging along on my ‘65 FB...

Thanks for diagram, it looked familiar so I dug through my files and had a copy.  Even though the harness is vehicle/year specific, I’m finding that Painless includes a lot of unnecessary wires to cover different options. #941 was a different number (#968) but it worked. I didn’t need #969. Thanks again for the response.

I'm installing a "painless" harness in my '65 fastback and so far it hasn't been too bad (other than I am completly intimidated by the thought of wiring my own car).  I have a two speed motor and connected the wiper switch using the original connector from the harness to the wiper motor.  I tested the switch using a battery charger and every is working; low speed, high speed and parking.  There is a single black wire that is stamped, "#969 washer pump to wiper motor".  The instructions say to "connect this wire to single male terminal on the side of the wiper motor" but there is no other terminal on my motor.  Do I need to splice this black wire into one of the blue, yellow, red or white wires on the wiper motor to get power to the washer pump? 
For some reason I don't have an "upload" icon on the bar so I tried the tinypic thingy but that doesn't work either.



Thanks for any help



 

Has anyone rebuilt their '65-66 parking brake handle assembly?  I know I can buy a new one for $70, but I've read that they are from overseas and there are fitment issues.  Mine has good bones but I'm missing a few pieces like the pulley, clevis pin, spring and locking pawl.  The first three are easy, but it seems the pawl is obsolete.  It looks easy enough to fab, but I can't find a good picture of the actual shape and dimensions or how it installs with the spring. Any help with photo or size is greatly appreciated.

Thanks




 

Any tips on how to install the clutch pedal return spring on a ‘65?  With the pedal all the way to the floor, the spring is about 1” short. How the heck do you stretch it under the dash?  I did install a MS cable clutch pedal but do not have an engine or trans yet (still on the wish list).
Thanks