Coupedaddy wrote:

59 years old lol

Yay!  Happy Birthday!!

Mine will be 58 on or about May 7th (May 7th is the scheduled build date, I don't know whether they actually finished it on that date though).  I'll have to get an ice cream cake from the local Dairy Queen for it. 

Jim Bowie wrote:

Cardone must use metric screws to hold points, so the little nib on Pertronix unit has to be file to fit hole, that wasn't hard to do, but then the magnetic collar that slips over the dist. cam is to big or the cam is to small, that's when i called the tech line and was told the kit wouldn't work on the aftermarket dist.

Is the Cardone a remanufactured unit?  If it is it should have the same fasteners and configuration as the original, since it is a remanufactured original unit.  At least that's the case with the products of theirs that I've bought.  My Cardone distributors even have the original part numbers in the castings - I've bought the remanufactured Duraspark distributors for the 75 or 78 model years for my engines.

Cab4word67 wrote:

OK quick queston on the gas gauge. I have a 65 coupe an switched over from the stock dash to the GT dash from a 65. Will the gauge read the same. I used to go into the E line and still have 2 gallons left. Just wondering if this will be somewhat the same. I am getting very close to the line and will carry 2 gallons of gas just so I dont run out but I want to know where really low is and hope its close to the same place.  

Electrically, yes.  The gauges operate the same.  The new gauge may be adjusted slightly differently though (there are mechanical adjustments on them).  If possible, check the "new" gauge against the old gauge by making sure the new gauge reads the same as the old gauge with given levels of fuel in the tank.

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

I am thinking mine is stuck shut ...when I  get time  I  am gonna check it....might be why it is running crappy like its bogged down.
 

If it's stuck shut it'll be running really rich.  You'd smell that in the exhaust and see the black smoke. 

I'd guess you have a vacuum leak somewhere. 

lowercasesteve wrote:

Curious - how well did the gauge lighting work with the flat black paint inside?  I think that was all gloss white from the factory.

Greg B wrote:

If the picture posting option gets fixed, the button leads to a poll for some reason, I will post what I did, and what I made. I don't know any other way to post it.

I use Imgur - you post the photos there and use the link provided to post here.  If you want, you can email the images to me (rextherocket@yahoo.com), I'll put them on Imgur and post them here. 

6sally6 wrote:

John Ha wrote:

Personally, I'd use a piece of cardboard the same size as the plate that's taped to the underside, 

Gee John.........cardboard won't add much strength at all !!
6sal6
 

Well, I did phrase that poorly so I guess it could be a blonde joke :-)

Personally, I'd use a peice of cardboard the same size as the plate that's taped to the underside, then an icepick to mark the holes. 

Excellent news!  Thanks for the updates.  I don't have Facebook or telephone numbers, so I rely on the forum for information.

The fellow who generated and posted them on his website recommends printing them on "a good quality matte vinyl".  I believe (not an expert) that the vinyl normally comes with an adhesive back - sort of like the U-stickem-on rocker stripes you can get. Amazon sells some stuff that's supposed to be compatible with "most" ink-jet printers.

I like the way your volt gauge overlay came out, but the "Volts" should be in all caps to match the other gauge labels.    I'm sure you know that, but I just had to nag.

Don't know what it's worth but if you can source a DuraSpark distributor for a 75 Maverick, you get the small cap.  I've had no issues with using the CarDone stuff - it's always been reliable.  If you have concerns, make sure there's a warranty before you buy so you can take it back if something's wrong.  Or you can buy it from a local chain parts store and pay more - but have the satisfaction of knowing that you can go and yell at a real person if need be.  

Everything for stock vehicles before the early 80's should have the iron gears, since the production roller engines first came out around 1985.

Or, you can use the "contact us" link on the Pertronix site to ask them about the gear directly - it's   https://pertronixbrands.com/pages/contact-us.  Give them a call or write them a note.  

In the past EJ Kanter had a business website and had the white-face gauge templates posted but they were no longer posted when I looked.  I messaged him asking about them and just received a note saying that he's reposted them for download.

If you want them, you can download them from https://www.kanterperformance.com/white-face-gauges

Cheers

EDIT TO ADD:  The gentleman who posted these recommends printing them on a good-quality matte vinyl.  It's available from some office supply stores and (of course), from Amazon.

I have a 66 convertible with stock upper A-arms (although the mounting shaft has been offset by 1/2 turn) and the Arning modification (which also moves the upper arms back 1/8"). The car has the stock strut rods and lower control arms.

The alignment shop I went to a few years ago only put a small amount of caster, and the camber appeared to be a little outside the specified values. The car drove OK, but needed a lot of corrections on back roads or in wind.

I've read about issues with bolts coming loose and shims falling out when there are large front-back differences in the thickness of the shims on a given A-arm.  Bullet Bob was kind enough to tell me about his wedge solution and it sounded great.  The only issue was that I didn't have the tools or material to make a wedge that would work.  Nevertheless, Bullet Bob's single piece solution was the inspiration for my implementation.  

I made a couple of plates that spanned both control arm bolts and wired the shims to the plates once I had the alignment numbers I wanted.  Admittedly, this is not going to square up the clamping surfaces for the bolts as a wedge would, so it's possible, if not likely, that the fasteners could loosen over time.  However, if that happens, the shims won't fall out of position.

I ended up with 4.2° of caster and 0° of camber on the left side, and 4.4° of caster and -0.2° of camber on the right side. The left side shim stacks were 3/16 front and 1/32 back. The right side are 15/32 front and 3/32 back. The mounting plate is 0.044 inches thick, so that adds into the total shim measurement front and rear.  I put blue thread lock on the bolt threads before I torqued the nuts for the last time, hoping the extra measure would make the nuts more resistant to loosening.

The car drives much better - straight with very few corrections needed on back roads, even fewer corrections on primary roads. I'm happy.

I've posted some photos of the process, starting with fitting a cardboard tem