Got the replacement clutch cable from MS....spent a couple minutes on it Saturday, got it installed and adjusted and clutch is now working!..I wasn't able to start because of a neutral safety wire I need to overcome....but one step closer!

To be fair....I'm a carpetbagger

And my Swedish colleagues in Linkoping say there isn't much of a car culture around ;)

So I worked the cable back into the end plug



And smooshed it over a little bit.....



And then put it back in.....was able to press the clutch pedal down once....the second time it came apart on me.

At this point I'm just going to assume bad part and I suppose order a replacement.



The alignment all looks good under the dash.  It's straight on into the bell housing.

What can I use to confirm clutch linkages in bell all work as planned and depress the clutch from under the car just to make sure I'm not somehow too tight on the clutch/stuck on something.

Rudi wrote:

Seems it was not swaged in.
 Counter sink the big end , shove the cable through it, fray the cable and draw it back into the fitting and silver solder the frayed cable to the fitting filling the counter sink with the solder.. It will never pull out again

Is this English?

I get shoving the cable through.
I think I get 'fray' the cable...basically pull it all apart

Silver Solder?

Isn't this thing supposed to have been crimped?
Can I shove it in my shop press and just collapse it a little?


 

Not a big deal.  I didn't even know booster had didn't size studs ;)

I'll get this together yet !

Booster was in the car..





I can almost get it all together....but it looks like I am going to have to take it all apart first and remove the drilled out nuts you have on the pedal assembly.  I gave up for today and drank a bottle of wine to dull the pain ;).....I might still be able to get it together once I get the booster all the way in and flat/flush....so far I've only been able to get 2 or 3 out of 4 studs/bolts aligned....
 

You know what happens when you poke a sloth enough times?


You get bored.

Sourcing a clutch pedal is turning out to be a larger headache than I thought it would be.

What I have:
1967 Auto car with power brakes.

What I am doing:
Putting in a t5

What I want to do:
Climb underdash, unbolt old pedal assembly soup to nuts and bolt in a new one.

The issue I am having:
I can find plenty of manual brake and clutch assemblies.  But not a power one.  I want to keep my booster and everything else the same, just swap the pedals.  I don't want to 'add a clutch' because I don't want to cut my brake pedal down.  Doing reading on this the power and manual brakes pedal arms I believe are physically different so even if said screw it and bought a manual assembly there is no way I could make it work.....
 

I love my 4 post with bridge jack and pole jacks....I can do anything on it....plus I have a work bench to put stuff on while working on it.  I've done it all suspension, brakes, steering, exhaust, subframes, transmission pulls, motor pulls, chunk changes, whole rear changes....all made easier with the 4 post than jack and jack stands.  I've even done 4 wheel rotation with 1 bridge jack and two pole stands.

The only negative/complaint I have....is remembering to duck when entering and exiting from any angle ;)
 

You traditionally email them to Steve with Calendar in the subject line.  I'm sure he will brush off the old page detailing it shortly ;)

Opentracker wrote:

It's from a 70 Mustang with a Cleveland. I have a C in our 65 coup.

What he said....it is a 20704. 

http://www.dodgestang.com/cgi-bin/pro/emAlbum.cgi?c=show_full;p=2013-09-08_65_Radiator;img=DSC02985.JPG

 

Chaplin wrote:

Hi Dodge-
Quick question on your after market hood. Did you have to install the hood pins to keep the hood closed or did you add them solely for aesthetics? I ask because I am installing the same hood on my 64.5 vert right now and, with the hood closed and resting on the rad support, it doesn't look like the factory hood latch will work correctly (haven't installed the hood latch to verify though) and one of the options we've been discussing is hood pins.

 

My hood has the 'metal' frame on the inside so I scewed my pin into it and latched it with the stock setup....drove around the block at low speed...and immediately ordered pins to help keep it on because it moved around too much for comfort.....plus with a trap speed of 120+ and a heavy use street car at highway speeds for prolonged periods....better safe than sorry  ;)

Ohh and to get it to latch...I did have to shove some 1 inch spacers on the latch mechanism to get it to line up with the pin in the hood