No it's not from packaging. It's formed this way and both sides are symmetrical. Look dead center of the seat riser and you can see the slope.

I just looked online at all ACC carpets and none have this slope.

Funny thing is this is my second set of carpet. First set had shifter hole cut and I didn't want that. I didn't have box anymore so couldn't return it and now this stuff formed wrong.

I'll call them Monday and see what the deal is. I haven't tried front yet so who knows about that.

The rear piece fits great on all other contours just has this crazy slope in the middle that won't let it sit flat

Looking around it seems there is two different types mass back.

Loop or nylon. What's the difference?

Gonna order some Monday so was curious.

Have these on my 66 coupe.

Fronts are 17x7 with 4.00 backspace
Rears  are 17x8 with 4.75 backspace.

These might have 300 miles on them

There are tires on the rims. I can sell with or without. Tires are Nitto 555r's

Fronts 235/45R17
Rears  275/40R17



$500 for just rims  and 850 wheels and tires.

Located in upstate SC

Dac@wctel.net

30x100 here and a waste oil heater is the way to go.

Natural gas about broke me three months out of the year.

Tubo I know your very knowledgeable but I had a issue with my car that hooking up the vss corrected.  I'm not sure if the actual vss fixed it or having the wiring plugged into the main harness fixed it.

When I started my car my idle would skyrocket to @2200 for a second or two them return to almost normal and then stall. It did this everytime no matter the temp. I installed the vss and hooked up the harness and guess what no high idle and no stall. I run a AOD though not a T5.

I have been a foxbody mustang for 20 years and I probably know my way around them better than anyone. I always thought the vss only served as a function for cruise and if it's a manual car, not to stall when u dump the clutch for a stop.

The cable posted was for a non cruise car. I used the one listed with cruise.

Finally getting around to working out all the bugs after my FI conversion. I absolutely love it. More of a pleasure to drive FI. Now to move on to suspension.  I'm tired of sawing on the wheel while driving. It's almost work to keep it on the road. The frontend is all new with stock replacement parts. Alignment is right but just feels like a old car. Lol

I also used shorties. Not jba but some off brand swap header. Fit like a glove. I don't have a clutch but can't see where there would be any clearance issues at all.

I did the same as Steve. Adjustment at hinges did not give enough so a little shove to one side and all was good.

Factory five. I'm also looking at the hot rod myself. Time is in short supply for me these days.

I built all those prior to children. I currently only have the 66 coupe. I did manage to convert to FI and OD trans over the winter.

Ok I will keep ya posted. I went with a custom Convertor and will prob go with another valve body too. Convertor builder has built many converters for me and knows his stuff. My last car was a stock suspension car that went 5:30 in the eighth. He asked me if I remember my first nitrous pass. He said the Convertor will have that same feeling. He said the stock Convertor just sucks the power.

Will have it installed prob next week.

Are you running a stock mustang Convertor? I have a 306 with a E cam. I have stock heads with a set of shorties. I'm also running a old school GT40 tubular intake.  I'm wondering if I should have changed my Convertor.  Forgot to mention 3:73 gears. Am I leaving anything on the table as far as drive ability with the original fox body Convertor.

I have a 66 coupe that has some cut coils on front and they settled too low. The rear has some stock leafs that has a lowering block installed. I like the stance of the rear and the front I would like a little higher. I would like to ditch the blocks and go with reverse eye springs. I'm thinking if going to roller perches when I do the swap. Suggestions on what I need please.

I'm partial to 17".