Thanks for the responses. I have a lot of work to do on the car, am building a Model T, working on three vintage motorcycles and the Bash will roll up quickly, so I will do my best to re-install the a/c.

Thanks for sharing your great story and the photos, those memories cannot be replaced. I am in a somewhat similar situation as my car was painted approximately 20 years ago. Naturally, the rock chips, parking lot scratches, and mistakes here and there have taken their toll. Never mind the parking lot dents. I generally repair the paint with the closest match I can find, which is Testor's model paint or nail polish, whichever I happen to have handy.

My decision not to repaint now or in the near future is driven by several factors. The cost: I just paid $3,800.00 for two gallons of PPG mid-range paint, one gallon of PPG mid-range clear and hardener and reducer. You have a nice paint job on that car, so you will be spending more for higher quality paint and clear. The time off the road: who knows? I thought I would rebuild a Model T in 6 months and a year later, I am close, but not finished. Your time: miles of smiles. If you are not driving the car, no miles of smiles; however, you do have quality garage time. Take your pick.

At my age, the sands of time are not in my favor, so I choose miles of smiles. The Model T will be the last car I build and probably the last I refurbish. For me, I would follow the above suggestions and attempt a spot repair first. If you find the repair unsatisfactory, you have lost little time and money and you can proceed with a complete paint job/restoration.
Good luck!

I can't imagine what you are going through. My condolences.

Thoughts and prayers to you and your wife.

My first Bash was a pleasant surprise in that I entered a group without having ever met any of you in person and had the pleasure of having great in depth conversations with many of the attendees. I regret that I did not have the opportunity to converse with all of you.

RPM, I know how much effort goes into planning such an event and job well done. If I may comment, I would suggest setting definite timelines on events so that we can travel as a group. As a newcomer, I didn't know the protocol and when I felt it was time to go or leave, I did. 

Dinners and lunch were a lot of fun, great conversations and great food.

I really enjoyed listening to the ideas floated and discussing modifications to the cars. I am again inspired to jump on some renovations to the 66.

I am incredibly impressed with the long haul attendees. Well done and so inspirational.

Lt Dan, I removed the alternator, took it apart for a visual inspection and visually, everything passed muster. I was impressed with the construction-caged roller bearings instead of bushings. I contacted powermaster and like you, they recommended a ground from the back of the radiator. I installed the alternator with a ground and voltage increased to 14.1 volts, .4 volts less than required cyclical charge voltage. A new alternator should arrive next week.

If any of you find yourselves in Southern California, reach out and let me know.
I hope to find the time to attend the Bash next year in Texas.
Aloha and best regards,
Mike
 

I will meet the group at Castaic tomorrow. Any participants need me to pick up parts or bring tools? Let me know asap.
Free to good home:
1. Big block radiator that has a pinhole leak. Very small, can be repaired;
2. Champion 4 row aluminum radiator has a pinhole leak. Again, very small, can be repaired; and
3. Custom Auto Sound radio. Was working when removed.
Will deliver at the Bash if anyone wants any of the above. 
Safe travels.

With the Bash rapidly approaching, I will not complete some tasks:
1. Install new fuel lines;
2. Install new fuel pump;
3. Replace A arm bushing;
4. Stone guard installation;
5. Paint front apron;
6. Repair power steering leak;
7. Install new tires;
8. Clear coat rims;
9. Replace convertible rear window;
10. Replace corroded components;
11. Install a spare tire;
12. Wax and polish;
13. Apply touch up paint;
14. Purchase new floor mats; 
15. Install new carburetor; and
16. Install Auto Cool Guy thermostat.


Tasks I will complete:
1. Check all fluids;
2. Check all undercarriage fasteners;
3. Check all engine compartment fasteners;
4. Torque lug nuts;
5. Clean trunk; 
6. Bring extra power steering fluid and engine oil;
7. Bring extra fuel pump;
8. Check tire pressure;
9. Bring tools; and
10. Apply race tape. 

Looking forward to meeting all of you and putting a face these posts that I read.

Presently have an Autolite 4100 (1.12 venturis) that is tuned for the 347 in my car. I am looking for something with a higher cfm capacity. The AVS2 caught my attention, but I haven't seen any reviews of the AVS2 on engines with a low vacuum signal that would be simulate, or be comparable to, the 347. Although the fuel air ratios are good with the Autolite, some circuits run a little rich and some run a little lean. I think that the AVS2 will provide more tuning options in the idle through low mid range.

I don't have a choke on the Autolite and would like to have a manual choke for morning start ups. I am a fan of annular boosters and that is why I installed the Autolite so many years ago. 

 

Money, time and patience. Tuning could be challenging.

My 347 specifications are probably similar to yours, except that I am using a Victor Junior intake. On my engine, Ford produced maximum horsepower with a 750 cfm Holley and open headers. I am using a modified Autolite 4100 and had to re-jet the carburetor. What is the cfm rating of your carburetor?

For the rich condition, using Holley's jetting chart might be a good way to set a baseline and then adjust jetting from that point. I am not familiar with the Summitt carburetor, but understand that it is similar to a Holley,  If my understanding is incorrect, ignore the foregoing.  I would also check your fuel pressure and float level. Black smoke on acceleration could also be indicative of an accelerator pump circuit that is excessively large or not properly tuned to provide the correct amount of fuel at the correct time upon actuation.

My engine is set at 36 degrees advance total timing. Your piston crown, valve placement and cylinder head design might be different than mine, so I can't say whether retarding or advancing the timing would be advantageous to you. What does Blueprint recommend for your engine?

Regarding the ticking, I have found that noise can migrate throughout the engine/transmission and that a stethoscope can be very handy in pinpointing the noise. You can put the stethoscope on each header tube to narrow down the noise source by listening for a different sound from one or two header tubes. After listening to the header tubes, continue working around the engine and you should eventually locate the source of the noise. What break in procedure did you use to seat the rings?
Good luck.

Sounds like you did everything correctly and the issue lies with the cam/lifter manufacturers. Like you, my experience with flat tappet engines has been good and I have several flat tappet vehicles.
I hope the cam/lifter manufacturers can provide an explanation for this.

Sorry to see this. I just built a flat tappet engine, Model T, and I use a very high zinc break in oil and Redline assembly lube. After a run on the test stand, no scuffing or other issues that I could find. Of course, this can be attributed to low valve spring pressure and low compression (marginally, 6 to 1 with a high compression head).

Are all 16 lifters damaged? What is the valve spring pressure and lift? Did the valve springs bind? Oil passages unobstructed?
I would send a damaged lifter to Comp Cams for analysis.
Good luck on the diagnosis.