Thanks for the info.  Would never have thought the effect was stamped into the sheet metal.  I have owned this car for 40 years and each time it's been freshened up the doors have received a  light color dusting.  You said you used a wire brush.  Have any problems with scratch marks?

Anyone have such a diagram?  I took this thing apart some time ago and now I don't seem to be able to remember  how it all goes back together, nor if I have all of the pieces. Golden years my hind foot.  I don't seem to be able to remember diddly squat anymore. If you would direct me to a picture I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks

I'm converting the dash on my 65 to 66 configuration. Went to the store to pick up Auto Meter gauges and found Equus gauges at a significant cost savings.  Only problem I have found is they are 2" versus the 2 1/16" everyone seems to prefer.  Has anyone used the Equus gauges and if so what modification was necessary to compensate for the 1/16" difference?  Happy with the looks and performance?  Difference in price is about $150.00 just for the basic gauges and they are all electrical.  Equus also makes the speedometer.  It's 3 3/8" and sells for $80.00. Input would be greatly appreciated.

TKO:  I am "assuming" the heads were made by ford as they look like any other casting I've seen.  They definitely came off a ford 302 engine.  It had been bored 60 over and I never had any cooling problems with a standard size radiator.  As for modifications there has not been any porting or polishing done and no other mods that could readily be identified.

jj:  There is no marking in any of the ports.

There are the numbers 78 cast under the valve covers midway of the heads on the lower side.  If this is the year of casting I've not seen this before.  Of course, my experience is fairly limited.

My thanks to rpm.  I have performed numerous searches on the site the last 3 days with no luck.  This is what I need.  Jer

Anybody have any info on how this is done?  Been researching for 3 days and can't find anything useful.  Thanks, JerryM

Sorry it took so long to get back to you.  I still need the crossmember.  I'm in Paris TX 75462.  Let's see what shipping will cost before I commit, but I'm fairly certain I'll take it..  Where are you located?  Jerry

I have an engine given to me by my youngest son.  Asked what year it was and he told me he didn't remember, but it came from T'Bird.  It's a 302 that has what looks like a EFi carb that has two jets.  I have a '82 lincoln that has a EFI carb that resembles this one closely.  The oil pan has a double sump with the sumps being on each end of the pan.  I have looked the block over and can find no numbers.  Can someone tell me what years this thing could possibly be, or where the block numbers are suppose to be on 302s?  Trying to find out if this could possibly be a roller engine before I tear it down.  If it's not a roller I don't to waste my time disassembling it.  Thanks, Jerry

A friend of mine went through a t5 for me and we didn't have the service manual giving directions on preloading the input/output shaft.  I now have the manual.  It's telling me how to measure for the shims, but it says to use a depth micrometer to take the measurements needed to determine the thickness of the shims.  I have enough tools in my tool box that I have used one time and don't want another if it can be avoided.  Is there another tool I can use to take these measurements with?  Any help/suggestions will be greately appreciated.   JerryM

When on I came over and picked up the R&P we had a  short discussion on a tool to seperate tie rod ends.  You recommended a tool obtainable from HF.  Tell me the name again, please.  Senility, alzheimers, etc has struck again.  Tried going to HF and prowling through the pages, but I'd probably expire before I found it.  Thanks, Jerry

Pulling engine and trannie from my '65 coupe.  Going back with T5.  Anyone have a crossmember they want to part with?