It was the rear main seal. Brand new fel-pro. Never had a problem with the previous ford racing one. The ford racing one only had 400 miles on it so I reused it and it is not leaking. I used all fel pro gaskets in my engine, but I think I will skip their rear main seal next time.

MS wrote:

Sounds like rear main. Go to Wal Mart. Buy a can of jock itch spray. Clean the bottom of the engine thoroughly and spray a good coating of the white power on the area around the leak. Drive the car a few miles and get under it and see if there are any oil trails in the white powder.

Another tip: the bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft go all the way through the flange into the inside of the engine where oil circulates. If no sealer is applied to the bolt threads, oil will seep past the threads and wind up on the flywheel. Usually this is in very small amounts showing up as oily streaks radiating from the center of the flywheel, rarely causing a drip type leak. Put sealer on bolt threads, NOT the threads in the crank to avoid pushing sealer into the engine.

 I did put sealer on the flexplate  bolts. It is all clean under there. I did not have a powdery spray but I did use hairspray quickly followed by talcum powder and it showed the leak right in the middle coming down the the block plate on the engine side. The oil pan butts right up against the block plate. The trans side of the block plate and the flexplate appear to be dry. 

Terry, what kind of receiver was he running? was it a retro style and what brand, model?

Rudi wrote:

I would certainly not be happy with 5 thou at the rotor, that runout  increases exponentially when you get out to the tread on the tire.
 It might be a big pain, butt (TS) If it were mine I would pop out the studs and set the rotor up  in  a lathe and clean it up to zero runout.
 As a retired tool and die maker I get anal to go beyond the steps an average "Joe Blow" would to getter  perfect!

 
 This might be your best option if your races are seated properly. I had considerable runout on one of my hubs so I bought a new reproduction hub. The new hub had runout that had to be addressed. I would mark the high and low points with a shapie and the amounts so when it gets checked up in the lathe it is in the same position. There is only about 7/16 area in the rear of the hub to chuck it up, could be easy to get chucked up crooked.

What I think would look really cool with burgandy is black Shelby stripes put down and covered with a candy/ translucent burgandy. In effect ghosting the black stripes.
After watching the video I guess I was picturing more of a dark maroon. still think the stripes layed underneath either would look cool.

Did you do any investigating or measuring as to why the driver side was lower before you took it apart? Did you happen to measure like points, one sprung one unsprung, on each side to see if they were the same. If not, I would consider replacing the springs unless you see something significant like a bent A-arm or severely bent arm shaft. I am not saying a new spring will fix it but with it all apart is the time to replace it.

 The tanks inc. tank seems like a good way to go. The filler neck is steel and easily weldable. I believe it has a galvanized coating you will need to grind off in the area of welding.
 I had to modify the lower mounting bracket for the command center. The two brackets are lined up vertically, so if you mounted it on the slanted side of the engine compartment it would not be level. I cut a section out of the lower bracket about the width of the fitech logo and welded it back together.
 As you can see in the pic, you have to weld the nipple almost flush with the filler neck so it fits through the hole in body and the support. I left it up just a little , just enough so I could weld it. I did not use the whole nipple. Just cut off what I needed off one end.

Overall pic with both unit and comand center.

Unit without air cleaner.

Here is how I did my vent. I welded  a cut piece of a pipe threaad nipple into the filler neck. Went with upgraded rubber hose with a barrier built in.

 I may end up using a wooden dowel but I googled plugging it and they make a 3/8 freeze plug also soneone said to use a spent 9 mm shell casing. Since I found a 9 mm casing at my house I tried it. It fit really tight, is air tight and made of brass. I installed it and will let you all know if it leaks.

 I got a mirror and can see the hole. It is smooth with no threads and looks like it goes all the way to the bottom of the block oil pan mounting surface. Is this supposed to have some kind of plug or is the oil pan gasket supposed to seal it? It has a oil pan bolt right next to it.

 Smoke coming from engine compartment. Does it sitting still and moving. Smoke is coming from oil on the headers. Really looks like is is being sprayed there. Dipstick on other side of engine. To be the oil pan it would need to be sprayed up there. Is this possible, it is well above the seam on the oil pan. Some oil has dripped down to floor. Not red like tranny fluid or power steering fluid. I did consider brake fluid but does not seem like brake fluid and does not make sense without brakes being applied at time.
 Probably was not a smart thing to do I know but I jacked up the front end and had my wife rev to 5k with me under car looking. Saw the smoke start pouring out from area described but could not see what the problem was. Camera might work of it was high def high speed in super slow motion, it happens that fast. I also thought about coolant but it appears to be oil. A small amount of oil shows up at the back of the block where it mates to tranny, I assume being blown there by all the air from the fan. Inside bellhousing dry. Steering box seems to get a little oily. It is in line with the spot on the headers  if oil was being sprayed out from the side of the engine.
 I will go try to make sure oil pan bolts are tight. All appears dry around the oil pan.