i love how in the before pic, the bench is full and the garbage can is empty. afterwards, it's the other way round.

this post reminded me why i stayed away form cars for a few years.
best mechanic i even knew's trick for stuck bolts, heat it with a torch and apply candle wax. it seeps into the threads and lets you get it out. obviously last resort. do not break the bolt off flush with the block beforehand!

they were advertised as a granada conversion when i bought them way back when. they have a single piston caliper. i will get a few pics and part numbers for you. have you ever heard of anyone selling granada conversion with the hole in the spindle re-done to mustang specs?

p.s. to make it more interesting, i will not be removing any material from the adjuster or the tie rods. i have plenty of adjustment left with the toe about 0. makes me think the spindles have been modified in that area as well.

if i thought it would help, i would. not really set up for doing pics and transfering to the computer though. if there's something in particular you want me to look for, let me know. i'm about to put it all together with the mustang tie rods. it's the only way this can go back together without a machinist working on the spindles.
these spindles have to have been modified, i guess.

have a great time! wish i was there!

i haven't looked at ultrastang's site to see his info, but i doubt it's any different than any others. maybe the problem came about when i first asked about how wide your rear was. i asked about axle flange to axle flange width. there is a big difference between housing width and axle flange to axle flange. all the measurements in the link i provided to you earlier are axle flange to axle flange. this can only be measured on a rear end with axles installed. pretty much any rear end you look for on the net, is measured this way.
the housing width is measured with the axles out. when it's a bare housing. these numbers don't help when looking for an axle to fit. you can do the math to figure out what axle you need this way, but it's a real headache. i'll post a pdf of rear end measurements for you, then i'll have a look at ultrasatngs and compare. hope this helps. untill we get the correct width straightened out between us, it'll be hard for anyone to help find the axle. sorry if i seem rude with this post, if it comes off that way, i apologize. it's not intended to be.
http://completeoffroad.com/files/how_to_measure_ford_9_axles.pdf
is this the article at ultrastang you were reffering to? http://ultrastang.com/info1.php

 

you need to measure from flange to flange on the outside, where the drum or rotor sits. is that where you got your measurement?

i got a couple taking up space. they're the big rectangular ones you mount on the shock tower or fenderwell. if you want one. or both, you can have them for the price of shipping from 94066.
one looks like this one, the other has the yellow decal. mine are NOT this nice though.

Deja Vu! i have the same housing in my pro-street mustang and had about the same problem. got some nice splined paperweights from it.
if any deal with BobE can't work out (i'm assuming not, or you wouldn't be back to this thread) i'd contact Moser Engineering for some custom axles. I'd bet my last 5 bucks that housing has been narrowed and you'll have a hard time finding a stock axle to fit. can't think of anything from the 50's that wouldn't have to be narrowed to get under a mustang. what width is it axle flange to axle flange? 57 1/4"? if it is, you can find an axle from a 9" 65-66, but that's probably gonna be real hard to come by.

when mine snapped, i tried Currie in So-Cal first, since they were semi-local, but they got really wierd when i told them i was using 8 3/4" mopar ends on my 9" ford. Moser had no problem and i had a new set of axles within two weeks. (this was 15 years ago) i don't know what you have for a center section now, but if there's nothing special about it, i'd seriously think about upgrading to a 31 spline while you're at it. i sure wish i had. i was only saving about $175 bucks for the spool at the time.

28 or 31 spline axles are the same price. $370http://www.moserengineering.com/custom-alloy-28-spline-axles.html http://www.moserengineering.com/custom-alloy-31-spline-axles.html
i'll include Currie's links as well, even though i don't like them. (wouldn't be fair to you to leave them out just because i still hold a grudge.)http://currieenterprises2.reachlocal.net/cestore/Product596.aspx?id=1885
http://currieenterprises2.reachlocal.net/cestore/Product596.aspx?id=1463
you can buy a single axle at Currie (the second link) if you go that route, i'd still contact Moser and ask them about a single axle first. (those Currie guys must have really let me down, to harbor ill-will for so long. i probably missed a big race waiting on them.)

here's a nice rear-end width chart so you'll see the right size

awesome! thanks for sharing!
on the third pic, i still have a set of those mags!
what's with all the white stuff in some of the pics? volcano erupt ash?

if you ever remove your coil springs, you'll have a great opportunity to run the suspension up and down and see what kind on bump you have. i'm gonna look into it hard after my new steering linkage is in, before i install the new spring perches. i'm dying to see how much i have then.

Scott wrote:

If it is the compression and de compression of the suspension would a better set of gas shocks minimize the travel?

minimizing the travel is a crutch. you could replace the shocks with steel tubing and eliminate bumpsteer alltogether, but it doesn't solve the problem. (obviously one should not attempt that!)
for a comfy street ride, you want as much travel as you can get with as little or no changes in suspension geometry.

your original question, alignment settings, is what you still need to know. have a look here. there's performance alignment specs listed in the article.
http://dazecars.com/dazed/bump.html
 

nice!
you don't do anything under 110%, do you?