13james13 wrote:

Yes, I'll replace the pads on the right...because they come in a set, left & right and that sounds better. I will say, its much better now.  What's the cost conversion over to Granada discs? Thanks Steve!

The left drum and pads had rivet grooves. I put new drum, new cylinder and new pads which made it pull left, but the right brake needed tightening. So I "believe" its ok now.
But I was wondering because the 3 year old wheel cylinder seemed to be sticking on the short brake side.

When checking for brake pad movement should one side move first and then the other side or should they both move at the same time?

Thanks everyone. I installed almost new everything  except distribution box and some hard brake lines. So, I'll look it all over.
Thanks for the info!

Hello Mustangers. Its pulling to the right but my left front brake is over heating. I have left side slightly tighter than the right to prevent pulling to the right.  But after 3 years, left  is over heating.  What do you recommend?

I know yall love upgrading to disc, but I'm hoping for a quick fix.
Thanks,James.

This question comes up a lot on here. To me, Pertronix 2 is a real cool fad, which is too difficult to wire in for how it performs. Pertronix said, it works best on chevys as well.
Some folks say their fords are running better. I sold mine and replaced my points. Problem solved again.
Just my experience.

6sally6 wrote:

Mochaman wrote:

Plus he really explains a lot of the movements.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/paint-body/1510-how-to-align-front-sheetmetal-on-an-early-mustang/

 

He forgot the "hidden bolt" inside...behind the kick panels. Don't axe me how I know!!
 

Lol...stop saying axe me.hehehe

josh-kebob wrote:

Attached on the backside of your instrument cluster....as two wires that plug into it.
The cvr is about a 1/2" wide by about an 1.5" long....

Alrighty, thanks Josh

Its really all about major corporations in competition with each other, fighting over more money and more power. As fans and spectators, we are caught somewhere in the middle being cheated and lied to about it.

I can't figure this out. My oil level is full. I checked the dip stick at idle and the oil level is way up on the stick. So pressure is good. Maybe the sending unit is screwy. I guess as long as the oil gauge is reading something. its all ok.
Thanks everyone.
James

Gaba wrote:

yes, but more details where are you seeing the issue ? what got you to check it ? 

YES voltage fluctuation can also fry wires.. as to do the same amount of work, low voltage means high current. High current means heat, heat means FRY 



 

From my original oil gauge, new sending unit.
Oil pressure varies.  Sometimes gauge is a little over halfway, sometimes its under halfway. Sometimes gauge slowly moves in the morning, other times it moves quicker. I'm told it could be caused by varying voltage which prompted the question of performance and gas mileage. Thanks for your input.
James

From my original oil gauge, new sending unit.
Oil pressure varies.  Sometimes gauge is a little over halfway, sometimes its under halfway. Sometimes gauge slowly moves in the morning, other times it moves quicker. I'm told it could be caused by varying voltage which prompted the question of performance and gas mileage. Thanks for your input. It runs pretty good. Think I should I get a new voltage regulator anyway?
James

Thanks Mach TJ!
Never would have thought of this.
I'm either running a very old or original voltage regulator. I'd say VR has something to do with voltage drop in the dash cluster? I cleaned the VR contacts when I noticed lights brighten at warm/rev up, that worked well.
Thanks again for your help!
James
Btw.  What does an internal oil leak mean?