I had my 67 coupe out at night (which I rarely do) , the head lights are really bad. Two years ago when I swapped
out the 289 for a 351w, I put in new halogen sealed beams and a higher output alternator ( I thought this would make a difference ,but not so much). I'm thinking about  head light relays and or led headlights. Would the relays make
much of a difference with halogen bulbs, or should I get led head lights, or should I get the relays and led head
lights? I just want to do this one time, what's the best way to go?
AS ALWAY'S THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT!  mustang stu 

Still dealing with the vibration( 67 coupe 351w,T-5), I shimmed the rear axle about 3 1/2 degrees up.. The vibration is
less than it was, but it's still there. I know the trans is down more degrees than it should be. I'm looking at Ron
Morris mounts that will lower the engine 1/2". I looked at the way the fan fits inside the guard on the rad it's
centered ,but it's closer to the top than the bottom, it looks like I can go down a 1/2". The cross member may have to
be unbolted and shimmed down to clear the oil pan. I'm not sure if I will run into any other issues (clutch linkage)?
I'm thinking if I can lower the engine, that might let me raise the back of the trans to get the where it needs to be.
Currently using stock 69 brackets, and 69 motor mounts. I did talk to Ron Morris, he was very helpful he said
he's had cars set up right in spec (trans and rear end) and still had vibration. He said an aluminum drive shaft
cancelled the vibration. Just wondering my old driveshaft is heavier more weights on it ,(never had any vibration
issues with that one) is 1/16" longer than the new one. The yoke is on it is for the 4 speed toploader  I read if
you use this yoke on a T-5 it could cause problems with the T-5 tail shaft. Would I be able to swap drive shafts
for a test ride without doing damage to the T-5? If it worked out better I could put the new T-5 yoke on the old drive shaft. The only other thing I could do is cut out the transmission tunnel, which I really don't want to do. I'm
thinking some one has gone thru this before. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP SO FAR!  mustang stu
P.S. Not sure if I should try swapping driveshafts before or after lowering the engine?
 

I got a new angle finder (digital), and 1/2x1/2 square bar for measuring = trans tail shaft=4.50-4.80 
degrees down ,driveshaft = 2.40 degrees down, rear end yoke = .8 degree down . The other angle 
finder had a sticking needle .What would be a good degree shim to start to bring the rear end up and
allow for the rear end going up under acceleration? Texas said 2 to 3 degrees, would that be good with these new measurements ? It's a lotta fun laying on your back taking these measurements, the70+ eyes
don't see as good as they use to, the digital gauge really helped. THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP
AND REPLYS  mustang stu

I finished up with the T-5 conversion and 350 rear end about a month ago. I haven't used it much, T-5 shifts fine.
At around 60 mph I start getting a vibration from the back of the car faster you go the worse it gets. Last year I
pulled the 289 out and put a 351w in ,the car ran great no vibrations at all, even in triple digit mph. The T-5 sits a
1/2" lower than the top loader. I put the front tires on a set of tire ramps and jacked up the rear end to level the
car  to get the same as if it would be sitting on the ground on 4 wheels. I measured the end of the trans, the flat
area next to the seal for the output to the drive shaft I got 7 degrees down. I measured the flat on the yoke of the
rear end and got 3 degrees down. I measured the driveshaft (installed) and got 6 degrees down. All measurements
were taken from the same side of the car (drivers side). I can't really raise the tranny without doing a lot of cutting or hacking. Would I want to raise or lower the rear end ? To get the proper pinion angle and how many degrees?
With pinion shims between the leaf springs and rear axle. I changed the tranny T-5,350 Posi 9'"rear end, new
rear shocks the old shocks were shot and a brand new driveshaft. I know MS and some of you other gents 
have gone thru this and can steer me, in the right direction.   mustang stu

John Ha ,  I didn't think that  I should be doing  any cutting from what I read. Taking a small break for a couple
day's while I check out crossmember options.   THANK'S for the info.  mustang stu

Dear John, Thanks so much for your reply, the cross member they gave me looks nothing like the modern 
drive line one. It's a funny looking one, it just bolts to the back of the cross member it does not swallow  both
sides like the original  and the modern drive line one. I'm hoping that they gave me the wrong one, I don't like
to start cutting and hacking to make something fit. I thought this was a pretty straight conversion, I did the dial
indicator to check the bell housing to crank shaft alignment, right on spec. I  have a top load trans mount and one they
sent me "poly " same results both mounts. I also thought there would be no cutting involved. I'm in a holding pattern 
right now. Should there be a lot of cutting on the trans tunnel?  Once again THANKS!     MUSTANG STU
 

Hey! Guy's Thanks for all the in put so far! I ordered a T-5 conversion package from American powertrain
so a new drive shaft is included. I was wondering about swapping that shield over the shorter yoke (new
center section) if it would hit the shield being shorter. I got the new center section from speedway motors
everything is on hold  (death in the family) . This will give me a little time to think things over. I do tend to
over think things,  some times  (MS, 6sally6 know this). When I was an Ironworker we would say
measure twice, cut once, the other saying was I cut it twice and it's still too short.  THANKS FOR ALL THE
REPLYS    mustang stu  Steve69 just went thru this, I  PM ed him also
 

I figured some one would know this, I was thinking of the T-5 swap, I wanted to get a repro gear shift lever and knob
67 look or style, that bolts onto the T-5 stub linkage that comes out of the T-5. If I get this setup would I be able to use
the 67 boot and chrome trim plate that fits on the boot (no console)? I thought it should work ,BUT that doesn't mean
it will. I have to make up my mind by the end of Dec., if I'm going to do this. I will probably take the advise on running
the 325 rear gears, and see how 5th gear works out. If not happy I can put a 350 posi in. 
as alway's best site for info and knowledge THANKS  mustang stu

I found a web site Blocklayer.com rpm-gear.aspx, this site gives you mph if you put in tire size, (215/70/14), rear
end ratio, transmission (4speed top loader,t-5 5 speed). When you enter the transmission type you can set the
specs for each gear (1st,2nd,3th,4th and 5th) if they are different than what comes up with trans type. (They have
been right on for the most part).  The top loader gears =4 are very close to the t-5 first =4 gears (t-5 a little bit lower)
I checked mph, at 2k rpm, with 3 different gear ratios in 5th gear. The 325 rear end= 2k,5th gear= 75 mph, 350 rear
end =2k,5th=70 mph, 370 rear end= 2k,5th gear 66 mph. I don't know for sure maybe it's the tire size ? I'm thinking
maybe modern driveline knows what their talking about. My wheels are styled steel, tires are 2 years old I would like to keep them as they are. I was shocked to see how high the mph was at 2k with the 325,350 rear ends. The 5th
gear is.63 in the t-5. Just wondering am I missing something here? I do like to do my homework before I pull the
pin and fork out the cash. What do guy's think?     mustang stu

Just putting this out there for some info. 67 coupe 351w mild cam (1,500 to 5,500 rpm)  the engine makes great
torque in 4th gear it pulls from 1,100 rpm. It seems to be crying for a 5 spd at 2k it's about 47 mph. It runs a lot
better than the 289 a code, it also uses a bit more gas. I don't have to run it hard just press on the gas easy,
and your moving. ( My right foot also has to do with mpg decrease ). I'm looking at a new trans set up from modern
drive line first gen t5 with the higher first gear. I have a 9" rear end from a 69 mach 1 in the car, the gears are 325
open rear end, I'm thinking about a 350 posi set up from speedway motors (new).  Modern drive line recommened
370 gears, I think this might be a little too low? The car runs great I don't really run it hard or pound on it. still
breaking in the engine, hit 5k a couple of times, I don't think I will be red lining it very much at all. A 4 spd top loader
is in the car right now. What do you guy's think?  mustang stu
P.S. I want to thank ms (all info you gave me was right on the money!) sally for the cam advise and every one
else for there help.

Would I be able to tap into the pink resistor wire where it starts at the ignition switch and run a wire to the pertronix 
coil (+ side)? The pink wire feeds the coil and also the starter solenoid,I would leave the pink wire intact to feed
the starter solenoid only. Or would I have to cut out the pink wire and replace it with a non resistor wire. I have a
cast pertronix distributor& flame thrower coil. I found out that I had 12 volts at the coil,but I guess it couldn't provide the amps with the resistor wire. I was going to get a power relay to feed the coil, but pertronix said on 74 down ford cars, you have to wire in a one way diode to stop back flow when you shut the key off. I will be putting in a new
ignition switch while it's apart.  I'm sure this has come before I can use your input. THANKS! mustang stu
P.S. sorry for the double post last week 
 
 

I'm making headway finally, the bad I took the 67 to get it lined up,the owner didn't do it,he had a 20 something
year old do it. The kid had a hard time,he kept asking the owner,I can't get this I can't get that.  All I did was put new lower control arms, roller spring saddles,and shocks on. It took him 3 hours to line it up,(a bad sign). I took the car
home a heard a pop the steering wheel went crooked. I slowly drove home. both wheels,were laying out on the 
bottom (camber) ,I went underneath, both nuts were loose on the lower control arm cams. I set the wheels by eye and went the next morning went (another 3 hour job). I had the owner check it out. The owner builds engines and is 
heavily into nas car. Mistake #2 I told him the car still wasn't running right, we took it out for a road test, it started
breaking up,he really got in to it (He beat the crap out of it) about a minute later both mufflers blew up (BIG TIME).
He did tell me he was sorry. I had made a lead to go from the battery direct to the coil, but wanted to get the front
end lined up for all the test driving I was doing. I hooked it up today the car's running great. I had checked the voltage at the coil I did have 12 volts. I put a new feed harness from the fire wall. I will probably get a new 
ignition switch and run a new wire out to the engine feed harness. I hope I finally turned the corner, when 
everything is fixed up,I will be getting the aligment checked (some place else).
I want to thank everyone for their help.  mustang stu
P.S. Someone on this forum said to check the input to the coil, it's possible the wire can can carry the voltage
but not enough wire to feed the amps. Hopefully pictures will follow before too long THANK'S TO ALL!

PS.firing order is for 351 w or newer 302 HO.   mustang stu