Latest update I pulled the cluster out, the ground looked clean. I checked the regulator, there is voltage going in, but nothing coming out on the other end. I did put a new regulator in when I restored the car, but the cars been on the road 26  years, how time flies. Thank to MS and all the other replies. mustang stu

Rudi   Yes I did, the owners manual  shows there is a fuse for the instrument lights. All fuses are good, all fused systems seem to be working. I had gauges working when I started driving, all of a sudden I didn't.     mustang stu

You can use the pink resistor wire to activate a relay to get your 12 volts to the distributor, works well, I carry a long wire with 2 clips to run from the battery to the distributor, in case that relay would fail. mustang stu

Nos681, The pump I got was whatever the late style would be. I got an improved " quiet style" power steering pump,
LARES brand, I wanted a new one, not a rebuilt pump. I ordered it for a 69 351w, the fitting for the return hose is angled away more from the exhaust manifold, than the rebuilt one I had on the engine (which is a plus). It's filled from a dip stick tube, no cap on the pump. I hope this helps some one later on.      mustang stu

I went out into the garage, fired the 67 up I had power steering for about 5minutes, riding around. Then nothing, seems to fade away. I do have a rebuilt control valve, that I bought after I put put the used one in, for a back up. Just not sure where to start. I hate to start throwing parts at it, till I can find out what's wrong. I don't have a gauge to test the pressure of the pump. When I had power steering for about 5 minutes, I cut the wheel hard in one direction I did hear the power steering pump squeal. Just wondering if anybody else has run into this.   
mustang stu

I had my 67 coupe out at night (which I rarely do) , the head lights are really bad. Two years ago when I swapped
out the 289 for a 351w, I put in new halogen sealed beams and a higher output alternator ( I thought this would make a difference ,but not so much). I'm thinking about  head light relays and or led headlights. Would the relays make
much of a difference with halogen bulbs, or should I get led head lights, or should I get the relays and led head
lights? I just want to do this one time, what's the best way to go?
AS ALWAY'S THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT!  mustang stu 

Still dealing with the vibration( 67 coupe 351w,T-5), I shimmed the rear axle about 3 1/2 degrees up.. The vibration is
less than it was, but it's still there. I know the trans is down more degrees than it should be. I'm looking at Ron
Morris mounts that will lower the engine 1/2". I looked at the way the fan fits inside the guard on the rad it's
centered ,but it's closer to the top than the bottom, it looks like I can go down a 1/2". The cross member may have to
be unbolted and shimmed down to clear the oil pan. I'm not sure if I will run into any other issues (clutch linkage)?
I'm thinking if I can lower the engine, that might let me raise the back of the trans to get the where it needs to be.
Currently using stock 69 brackets, and 69 motor mounts. I did talk to Ron Morris, he was very helpful he said
he's had cars set up right in spec (trans and rear end) and still had vibration. He said an aluminum drive shaft
cancelled the vibration. Just wondering my old driveshaft is heavier more weights on it ,(never had any vibration
issues with that one) is 1/16" longer than the new one. The yoke is on it is for the 4 speed toploader  I read if
you use this yoke on a T-5 it could cause problems with the T-5 tail shaft. Would I be able to swap drive shafts
for a test ride without doing damage to the T-5? If it worked out better I could put the new T-5 yoke on the old drive shaft. The only other thing I could do is cut out the transmission tunnel, which I really don't want to do. I'm
thinking some one has gone thru this before. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP SO FAR!  mustang stu
P.S. Not sure if I should try swapping driveshafts before or after lowering the engine?
 

I got a new angle finder (digital), and 1/2x1/2 square bar for measuring = trans tail shaft=4.50-4.80 
degrees down ,driveshaft = 2.40 degrees down, rear end yoke = .8 degree down . The other angle 
finder had a sticking needle .What would be a good degree shim to start to bring the rear end up and
allow for the rear end going up under acceleration? Texas said 2 to 3 degrees, would that be good with these new measurements ? It's a lotta fun laying on your back taking these measurements, the70+ eyes
don't see as good as they use to, the digital gauge really helped. THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP
AND REPLYS  mustang stu

I finished up with the T-5 conversion and 350 rear end about a month ago. I haven't used it much, T-5 shifts fine.
At around 60 mph I start getting a vibration from the back of the car faster you go the worse it gets. Last year I
pulled the 289 out and put a 351w in ,the car ran great no vibrations at all, even in triple digit mph. The T-5 sits a
1/2" lower than the top loader. I put the front tires on a set of tire ramps and jacked up the rear end to level the
car  to get the same as if it would be sitting on the ground on 4 wheels. I measured the end of the trans, the flat
area next to the seal for the output to the drive shaft I got 7 degrees down. I measured the flat on the yoke of the
rear end and got 3 degrees down. I measured the driveshaft (installed) and got 6 degrees down. All measurements
were taken from the same side of the car (drivers side). I can't really raise the tranny without doing a lot of cutting or hacking. Would I want to raise or lower the rear end ? To get the proper pinion angle and how many degrees?
With pinion shims between the leaf springs and rear axle. I changed the tranny T-5,350 Posi 9'"rear end, new
rear shocks the old shocks were shot and a brand new driveshaft. I know MS and some of you other gents 
have gone thru this and can steer me, in the right direction.   mustang stu

John Ha ,  I didn't think that  I should be doing  any cutting from what I read. Taking a small break for a couple
day's while I check out crossmember options.   THANK'S for the info.  mustang stu

Dear John, Thanks so much for your reply, the cross member they gave me looks nothing like the modern 
drive line one. It's a funny looking one, it just bolts to the back of the cross member it does not swallow  both
sides like the original  and the modern drive line one. I'm hoping that they gave me the wrong one, I don't like
to start cutting and hacking to make something fit. I thought this was a pretty straight conversion, I did the dial
indicator to check the bell housing to crank shaft alignment, right on spec. I  have a top load trans mount and one they
sent me "poly " same results both mounts. I also thought there would be no cutting involved. I'm in a holding pattern 
right now. Should there be a lot of cutting on the trans tunnel?  Once again THANKS!     MUSTANG STU
 

Hey! Guy's Thanks for all the in put so far! I ordered a T-5 conversion package from American powertrain
so a new drive shaft is included. I was wondering about swapping that shield over the shorter yoke (new
center section) if it would hit the shield being shorter. I got the new center section from speedway motors
everything is on hold  (death in the family) . This will give me a little time to think things over. I do tend to
over think things,  some times  (MS, 6sally6 know this). When I was an Ironworker we would say
measure twice, cut once, the other saying was I cut it twice and it's still too short.  THANKS FOR ALL THE
REPLYS    mustang stu  Steve69 just went thru this, I  PM ed him also
 

I figured some one would know this, I was thinking of the T-5 swap, I wanted to get a repro gear shift lever and knob
67 look or style, that bolts onto the T-5 stub linkage that comes out of the T-5. If I get this setup would I be able to use
the 67 boot and chrome trim plate that fits on the boot (no console)? I thought it should work ,BUT that doesn't mean
it will. I have to make up my mind by the end of Dec., if I'm going to do this. I will probably take the advise on running
the 325 rear gears, and see how 5th gear works out. If not happy I can put a 350 posi in. 
as alway's best site for info and knowledge THANKS  mustang stu