Yes I did nothing yet.

Bolted to Floor wrote:

Great addition to the garage. Beautiful car and the blues are almost identical. Always loved those and wanted one for years. Don’t k own if I will ever scratch that itch. Time to get some more miles on it.

Is that a radio under the dash? Can you even hear it?

It is an aftermarket CD stereo system with front and rear speakers. He said he only used it twice in twenty years and questioned why he ever put it in at all. I doubt I will use it. Hard enough to converse with my wife while driving as it is.
 

Rudi wrote:

Nice car, is it a Factory Five?

There are similarities to a Factory Five, but it is actually a BRM. Boss Replica Motors. A company that operated in Burlington, Ontario for about 20 years or so. I don't know how many they produced, but I am discovering there are quite a few BRM owners in the province.
 

PLEASE don't make it like the Facebook groups. They seem mostly for posting photos and showing off. I have not posted here for a long  time, but still check in with some regularity. I recommend this forum to all vintage Mustang owners I meet. It is the go to spot in my opinion for someone trying to figure stuff out or learn a hobby that may be new to them. Where else are you going to find a large group of experts that are able and willing to help. If the search engine thing can be addressed, by all means try to improve that. I recommend that everyone continue the word of mouth campaign like I do, with everyone you meet who owns a vintage Mustang. The membership is all over the world, so it still has an impact in this digital age.
 

Has anyone ever pulled and reinstalled a small block from a 67 without removing the hood?

I have pretty fresh paint and do not want to take the hood off. If you strip down the motor and leave the tranny in place, can it be done without bumping into the hood with the cherry picker? I have always found that you have to lift pretty high to get the pan over the front rad cradle. Never tried with a hood in place before.

Thanks for your input MS. from the sounds of what you are describing I should go with headers instead. Do not want to get involved with grinding the head or manifolds. My main motivation for the manifolds over headers was that the complete exhaust kits I have been buying for years and that fit great come with the H pipe for manifolds only. If I go with headers I will have to come up with an H pipe to fit.
 

I just test fit my new rims 15 x 7 Torq Thrust D rims with 3.76 back spacing and -6 offset. with BFG 205/65/15 tires and am concerned a bit about the rears. They appear to sit about 1/8" to 3/16" past the inner edge of the wheel lip.

I did all my homework on rims and tires beforehand and these should fit fine, but I am concerned about rubbing. New paint, so lip rolling in NOT an option.

This complete rim & tire package, in these sizes, are listed and sold by many Mustang suppliers, so I have to assume it will not be a problem, but would like reassurances from anybody that is running the same set up on a stock suspension. My leaf springs are new and all shocks, steering and suspension components are new.

Thanks

I don't seem to be able to attach a picture. Doing some straight edge lines I have determined that it is only the side wall that extends beyond the inner wheel lip. The tire edge clears it just fine. With the full weight resting on the springs, and wheel mounted, there is room for exactly 3 inches of travel before wheel lip edge would make contact with side wall. Is this enough space to not worry about it??

 

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Have a 67 coupe that I need to replace the door runners on both sides and the vent glass on one side.

In the past I have removed everything, starting with the door glass, but would rather not have to redo it all this time. Fitment and alignment is perfect. Is it possible to remove just the vent glass assembly and leave the door glass, crank mechanism and internals in place? Will the door glass fall down at the front without the front run, or will I over stress anything if I let the door glass hang after removing the vent glass assembly and it's supporting track?

 

It's a stock 302, no mods. After posting, I realized that NPD lists the entire line right from the tank for 289 engines at 5/16". Looks like they only went to 3/8" in 68. I happened to have 68 lines on hand in the 3/8" size from a previous project.

I think I am going to stick with my existing stock pre-bent 5/16" line for the pump to carb run. It already fits perfectly. 

Thanks for the reassurances.

This is the thought I had that would avoid cutting any of the harness.

Run a direct 12 volt feed to a standard relay switch. Then use the brown wire "I" terminal post off the starter relay to act as the trigger to turn on the external relay switch and send 12 volts to the distributor.

The brown wire "I" terminal is fed directly from the ignition switch via the pink wire under the dash so it should be hot in start and run only. The lower voltage should be no problem in terms of just triggering the relay. I have used this same approach to deal with horns that are not getting enough juice to function.

Is there any flaw with my logic??

Makes sense, but I don't have any of the original a/c parts, the main reason I am going non a/c.