I get a bit paranoid with the window install, and I put goop on everything.  I use bedding compound in the groove for the glass.  I stick the gsket onto the window.  I lay a bead in the bare pinch weld channel before bringing the window over.  I lay a bead in the gasket groove for the pinch weld, THEN lay in the cord, crossing over at the  bottom of the window, and tape the cord ends to the inside of the glass. (so they dont flop about, fall out or get between the window and the pinch weld.
THEN I add another bead over the cord.
You pull the cord out at 90 degree angle to the plane of the glass.  Imagine pulling it toward the center of the car.  No matter where the cord is peeling out, pull it out at 90 degrees, all around the perimeter of the gasket/glass.  Dont try to help it by following the  edge of the gasket,  Just pull it straight out, toward you.
The cord caries some of the goop into the lop and inner pinch weld.  It is the filthiest part of the task, hauling a goop covered cord out.  Wear gloves and old clothes you are willing to burn.
The use of urethane is something I have not done.  Seems a lot of experts are using urethane to finish, ad I do understand why.  They seal the outer lip of the gasket to the outer panel of the glass, to make it watertight as a path to the interior of the car, AND it hardens.  Not sure I will ever use it.  if you get a crack it all has to come out.  With bedding compound you can just squish some more in and clean up again.  And if you dont get a perfect seal, first time well, urethane hardens so it has to come out.  Scratch one gasket and start over.

Dont forget to put your trim clip in before filling the void between gasket and body with compound, prior to wet-testing and then fitting of your bright trim. It is a filthy job to do it with bedding compound filled in there.and the clips arre tricky to fit properly anyway.  I made a notchedl timber push stick to knock them into place.

Nothing is easy is i

OK, having done this on the rear window of my 70 coupe last year, I can tell you there are a few variations on the process.  I enlisted my mechanic who apparently has done "plenty of them" .

On the pinch weld repairs, You need to wire wheel down to clean bright metal, and weld any pin holes, cracks and grind down flush.  This area is a "once in 30 years repair", so take the effort to get it perfect.  Use dollies and hammers to get it clean, even, flush.  Most of my pinch weld seams had a sharp edge or corner, and needed trimming and in some cases, building up with weld..Grinding and smoothing.  This will help when installing the window and gasket.
Agree on the 3M bedding compound.  This goop never sets hard, as opposed to Urethane.  Use a lot in every groove, and deal with the mess afterwards.  Next time I do this I will be laying a thick bead in the pinch weld channel just before I set and pull the gasket in.  This is because you need a solid unbroken seam of sealer in this are, and it is near impossible to get it donw evenly after the gasket and glass is in place.
The goop you put in the pinch weld groove of the rubber gasket is really to seal the edge of the pinchweld and the inner metal of the window opening.  Using a cord does tend to pull this goop out as you work the cord, and that cant be helped.  I wrap the cord in tight, then tape the ends to the glass, then lay in the goop over the cord.  Messy, yes.  Godd watertight seal - Yes.
When the glass and gasket is in place, and cetnered, time to install the trim clips, then shoot more goop into the gap between the rubber and the body.  Fill it up with a solid bead.  As deep as you can get with the nozzle.

Some folks then lay a bead under the lip on the outside of the window.  If you are going to do this, it should be done prior to installing the trim, so the rubber gasket can open up easier and allow the nozzle to push inder the lip and slide around the window.
Then clean up and do a leak test

I returned last night from a few days out of State, and found I had received a package sometime over the last few days.

ChelbyAnn had sent me a template for the Shelby drop, PLUS correct bolts and washers,PLUS a gift of a brand new flashlight.  And paid the postage.
My kind regards to you Bill, and wanted to acknowledge your generosity and kindness on this forum.
Seems to me the older Mustang community is about the best mannered, most decent among the Muscle car enthusiasts, and things like this make me proud to be part of these forums.

Thanks again, I owe you a 'solid' (Kramer quote - from Seinfeld)
It made my day....
 

A handbag on wheels

This is what happens when Rue Paul decides to make a Hot Rod.

Probably sell it to Elton John. 

There is an other option to consider.  The Aussie Falcon spindles are very similar to the 70 spindle with an additional 3/8 inch height - which effectively is almost a half distance "Shelby drop".
I am waiting on the dimensional comparison of the steering arms, but that may be something worth considering.  It will not change the roll center, as I understand it, so it may not be a noticeable change.  I think it will improve bump steer control, and maintain the camber more effectively, but not the roll.

Unfortunately if those taller spindles were combined with a Shelby drop, it would lead to binding at the ball joint in the UCA, so a negative wedge kit would be required.

So it is one or the other, and the Shelby drop seems to offer more benefit.

OK, answering my own question here, it seems that 1/16 shim in the front bolt will add 1 degree caster.
I also read that Ford manual states there should be no more than 1/16th difference between the front and rear bolt.

Another point - seems the Shelby drop requires 1/8 inch adjustment to correct for the positive camber the drop adds.  With my 69 that woould be adjustment at the camber adjuster of the LCA??

 

Daze wrote:

I think I might have an answer or two for you  The best way to get max life out of the template is to use it to start the pilot holes but not drill them all the way through.  Even if the template was steel, punching the holes all the way through several times will begin to change the shape of the hole.  Once you have the holes started, remove the template and you have two nice divots started ready to finish drilling out.  Keep in mind the steel Ford used for the shock tower is fairly hard.  I agree with MS step drill bits are the way to go when drilling out the holes up to 1/2" and then you can finish with a file or 17/32" bit.  The 17/32" bit I offer is Silver and Deming meaning that even though the bit size is greater than 1/2" the shank is only 1/2"  IF you decide to use a paper or cardboard template DO NOT USE THE ONE FOUND ON LINE.  It's not accurately drawn. (67 and up drawing is worse than the 60-66 drawing, but both are off)  The online drawing will work as thousands of people have used it but the holes are slightly off and it usually takes a bit of persuasion with a file to get the UCA bolts to slide in.  If you go paper draw it your self.  If you have not seen it I have a web page that walks you through the entire process.  http://dazecars.com/dazed/drop.html Let me know if I can help further.

Thank you.  I have spent a lot of time on your site and others, very informative, thank you.

I have put my order in for the drill and template late last night.  Chelby Ann has offered me a steel template.  I will compare that closely to your template to determine they are identical, and then go from there .  Bought a few step drills last night too.  Stupidly, my first purchase was a 1/4 - 7/8 inch size, a dumb choice.  I have a 1/8 - 1/2 inch on the way. No chance of oversizing the hole with that one.  I plan to finish with the 17/32 bit

Thank you for your reply, I apprreciate it. 

I have been procrastinating long enough, since I am very happy with my 70's handling and steering as it is, but I have purchased a set of 70 spnidles which I will be installing on my 69 Mach1, so will be doing some rebuilding on that front end.  The Shelby drop is one thing I will do to this car and if it improves the handling, I will also do it to the 70.

Two questions on the kit from Daze cars

Is the aluminum template suitable and tough enough to allow for drilling the pilot holes without ruining the template hole?  I want to do at least 2 cars.  Any enlarging in the template hole from guys who have used it?

Is the 17/32 drill tapered shaft to allow for a 1/2 inch drill chuck? I cant tell from the website pic.

I have read and read all that I can on the process, and it seems the 1/2 inch hole will actually work, without enlarging to 17/32"
Also, from all the feedback, it seems the step drills work very well?

Thanks in advance to any replies.  I see one vendor with a stainless steel template and wonder if it is morre or less suitable.  I like feedback from those who have done this more than once.

That is pretty cool that it is still 'local' to you.

Most cars are never seen again.....

barnett468 wrote:

SA69Mach wrote:

You might want to look at Vintage Mustang Forums, and since you have a 70, also try 69 Stangnet (more focussed on 69 and 70 cars)

birdlady2u, although there are some very knowledgeable people on both of the other forums mentioned, and it is best to get more than one opinion, i'm pretty confident that other suggestions you find eldsewhere will not vary much, if any, from the ones you get here, and there are some very knowledgeable people here as well, mustang steve being one of them, so whever you look, we hope that you find this site not only a good reliable source of info but also fun and you keep posting here as well.
 

Yes Barnett468, I only found out about this site when I purchased Steves roller bearing clutch kit.  I enjoy the knowledge and enthusiasm of the Mustang community, and will keep this forum open.  I hope to contribute, but I do not have as much to offer as many others, on any forum.  I restrict my comments to things I have done personally or dealt with.  I do have great respect for Steve, who makes it possible for the average guy to tackle jobs and improve their cars, and their experience.  He is an innovator and we need him, and others like him. 

So, for the original poster, Jo, please keep at it, and keep us informed of your work on your Mustang.