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No interest as of late.  It needs to go.  I need my garage back to start another project.  I looked into Bring a Trailer a little and I don't think this is their kind of car.  Everything looks shiny and polished.  This one is more like 'ol reliable-a little rough around the edges, but always there for you.

On my '66 I first had a '90 Contour box, but it had no relays.  Then I had a '94 Explorer box working with a 5.0 conversion.  Now I have the '00 Explorer box with the '00 Explorer engine.  It fits nicely on the drivers fender.  Either of the Explorer ones have a good selection of maxi fuses, mini fuses, and relays.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SPJVVJPQefYuXSUv9

 

Since I am seeing no offers either here or on FB Marketplace,  I have a question.  I have had a few inquiries but nobody has come to see it yet.  Either I am way high or it's just not an interesting car.  Any idea from you experts what a reasonable price would be for this car?  Or what I might do to it to make it sell? (OK that is 2 questions)  I have thought hard about a cheap paint job, but if I was buying I would want to see it just as it is with nothing hidden. I know you can't usually get your money out of a project, so I know I will realistically take some loss.  I am not hurting to sell it, but would like to while it is still fresh from RT66 and I can get my garage bay back.  I can see it going 1 of several ways.  1-enjoy just like it is, (or 1b-put a windshield and headliner in it and enjoy as-is) 2-blow it apart to do the paint and body and put it back together with a new interior, 3-buy a Dynacorn fastback or convertible body and have most of the parts to put it back plus an original title. It's  a running, driving, reliable '66 Mustang but it's ugly to some.  I was confident enough in it to send it 3000 miles away and drive it back with minimal tools.  I am interested in what you guys think a realistic value is.  Hit me, I can take it.  Thanks!

I thought I should explain a bit more to go with the ad.  I have had the car almost 20 years, but it has only been driving for about a year.  I originally bought it to fix for my wife but she didn't care.  Fixed the floors and did a 5.0 swap to the point it needed a couple days work to complete and then got a job in a new town in 2005.  Thought my 2 sons might be interested in cars, but they were not.  I did with them what they wanted to do until they left.  Car sat in the corner of the garage and I gathered parts.  Then I brought it out when they were gone and finished it expressly for a RT66 trip.  It was basically purpose built for a 3000 mile road trip in a classic car.  I wanted a very stock looking '66 Mustang like my classmates had in High School, but with a modern driveline for mileage and safety where I could improve it.  I wanted rock solid reliability (within reason), with parts readily available along the way in junkyards and parts stores.  I wanted as many OEM parts as possible.  I wanted to keep it Ford, but not cut it up for a rack and pinion front or Coyote swap.  I wanted to not have to worry about door dings and hotel parking lots and dirt/bumpy roads. So this car was built to be strong but not particularly stand out. I feel that by finishing a 3000 mile trip with no major mechanical issues that I achieved what I set out to do.  I have other cars and projects, but this one really does not fit my long term needs so it needs to go.  That is why I am selling it, not because there is anything wrong with it, not that I don't want to "finish" it (whatever that means), but I just can't keep them all.  I tried to spend money where it would make it reliable and better than original.  I tried to keep as much of the character of the car as I could but still make it safer and more comfortable.  I know the price sounds high, but it's hard to build anything decent cheap-and it's negotiable.  I have a spreadsheet of what I spent and where that

So you have a fresh rebuilt engine that has been sitting a long time?  And you are taking it apart and then putting it back together?  To me as long as these were not damaged I don't see why you can't reuse them.  Are you sure the bearing caps were on correctly?  What are you finding that you don't like besides a  bunch of RTV?

The last photo with the charcoal cannister was the original setup for an '88 Cougar 5.0 it was taken when I pulled that engine to put in the Explorer 5.0.  Where the vapor line comes through the apron the fuel lines  originally came there too.  I also added some spring wrap at that location so the vapor line didn't get a kink in it.  The vapor line is still there now but the fuel line comes up under the heater motor. (and did away with the starter solenoid since the later starter has a solenoid on it)

If you are going to make your own EFI hard lines I would look at a Mastercool tool.  It makes those lines so simple.  Also double flare brake lines are easy too.  Don't get to use it too often, but it is one of my favorite tools.

TKOPerformance wrote:

This is exactly why when people talk about converting to EFI I suggest using an OEM based system.  Its more work on the installation, but you get a system that was OEM engineered and OEM tested for longevity and reliability.  There are 40 year old vehicles out there running EECIV systems that still work fine, and if there's an issue you have a factory troubleshooting manual with pinpoint tests and parts are commonly available.  The problem with the aftermarket is that its geared towards product, and the product evolves over time.  Once that happens support, parts, etc. for the older style systems starts to disappear. 

This.  I have done a number of EFI conversions using OEM computers and they are all still running, 4 of them almost 20 years now.  Parts available at any auto parts store (except maybe fuel pump).  Could be diagnosable in a dealership if necessary.  I have nothing against aftermarket systems, but unless you are heavily modified I see no reason to go that way.  I too have never had an EFI vehicle leave me stranded for an EFI related problem.
 

I had a blast.  I would recommend anybody using a 4R70W to use an AODE pan if you have any hint of ground clearance issue.

Wish I could post a few photos, but Photobucket won't allow that anymore and I don't have another host.  Suggestions on a free host?

Short version: Just got back from a 10 day RT66 trip.  Shipped my '66 from Tennessee to California.  We started in San Francisco, came down the Pacific Coast Highway to Los Angeles and drove it on RT66 to Joplin, MO then came home via Little Rock to visit my son, just over 3000 miles total. Car is a resto-mod with ’00 Explorer 5.0.  Sat from ’85 when it hit a deer to me getting it moving again last year.  Saw a lot of interesting places and things along the way.  Overall thoughts:
1-Would I ever do this in a ’66 Mustang again-no
2-Would I ever do this in a classic car again-probably not, but maybe.  We only saw 3 older cars on the road the whole time.
3-Would I ever do RT66 again-yes, but not the same way.  I will someday finish Joplin to Chicago.  I would not do any of the big cities on RT66 again.  Almost nothing left to see.
4-Jerry McLanahan’s EZ66 book is excellent, a must have. My only comment is that it is written for East to West travelers.  If you are going West to East you will have to do some interpreting.
5-A navigator is a must.  RT66 takes many strange and unmarked turns.  Having a navigator made it much better.
6-RT66 as it was 50 years ago is long gone.  There is some left to enjoy, particularly Eastern California, Western Arizona, Western New Mexico, Texas, and some Oklahoma.  Much of the rest has been eaten by the Interstate.
 
Long Version:  Wanted to travel RT66 for a long time.  My children are grown and married now.  I have a ’66 Mustang that I thought would be a fitting car.  It was wrecked in ’85 and sat in a field until ’03 when I bought it.  Fixed the floor pans and swapped in a V8.  Moved to a new city in ’05 and stuck the car in the corner of my garage.  Children not interested, so it sat.  When they left, I dragged it out and finished it specifically for this trip.  I wanted a good driver, but not a show car.  Something safe, but don’t have to worry somebody will scratch.  Changed much of what

I used a '74 F250 motor with the original bracket and arm from my '66.  Then used the switch and module from a '91 F150.  Had to cut off the shaft on the switch but other than that it was plug and play.

Bullet Bob wrote:

Wow....very nice and complete write up.  Your Monte Carlo bar is quite a piece of engineering.  I got involved in putting an Explorer with complete front dress and 
T5 in a '64 Falcon.  I did a custom harness and we went with a dizzy and run it on an EEC-IV, A9L PCM.  My friend was determined to use all the Explorer accessories but the Falcon engine compartment is a bit longer than the Mustang, I think, and we were able to make an adapter to allow use of the Exp. AC compressor. 

So now drive the wheels off of it.  Next Bash is in Rockwall, TX, May 20-22.....BE THERE!

BB1
 

The Explorer a/c compressor has ports in back.  A 2000ish Crown Vic has ports on top.  The wrecked Mountaineer I bought had no compressor when I got it, just a delete pulley.  From my junkyard measurements, a Crown Vic has the same mounting pattern.  I THINK it would require a 1.5" dimple in the shock tower to not interfere, but that is all kind of squinting and guessing.  I like a/c but it just didn't make sense with this one.  I think it would fit better on a '67 up.  If I could have found an easy way to bring the engine forward, that would have been nice.  The Explorer accessories are shorter than any other SB Ford so 1.5" forward would be no problem-and might have helped with the transmission wiring block.

I really really wanted to keep it OBD2 for better diagnostics and to keep the coilpacks.  I did not want a distributor and OBD1.  It is very hard to find anyone who can do anything with these PCMs.  Garry The EFI Guy is outstanding, I cannot say enough nice about him.  Keeping the coil packs meant I had to keep Explorer accessories (or make custom) and I had to keep the front cover to get the crank trigger (on RH side) so no good place for the dipstick like the previous covers had.  I was also sweating until I got the hood on that the coilpacks would hit but they dont.

For the MonteCarlo bar, I took a porta power and spread the car the right

I realize this is an ancient post, but I have done this recently and have answers to some of the questions.  I hope that this may be helpful to somebody thinking about this swap.
I wrote about this on a different Mustang site, but this is the shortened/compiled version.
Short story, it is possible to put an Explorer 5.0/4R70W transmission in a ’66 Mustang in OBD2 trim without a distributor, without changing to a Mustang computer, and without modifying the hood.  It is possible to get the PCM programmed to a non-emissions version and delete PATS.  It is possible to use the Explorer front cover with a front sump pan/dipstick.
Long story.  ’66 Mustang originally a 6-cyl/3-sp I swapped to V8 and AOD but never finished.   Battery relocated to trunk.  Shortened 8.8 Explorer 3.7 TracLok disk brake rear (14” Disc Brake steel wheels work fine, 14x6 Magnum 500 wheels required 1/8 shims both front and rear to clear calipers).  Borgeson steering.  Granada brakes.  Shelby/Arning drop.    I decided wanted an Explorer 5.0 with the GT40P heads and improved 4R70W transmission.  It is arguably the pinnacle of SB Ford engine development.  I bought a wrecked 2000 AWD 5.0 Mountaineer.  I bought a 2wd transmission from the pick-a-part.  I sent the PCM to “The EFI Guy” Garry in Colorado.  He is the key to all of this.  He turned off PATS, EGR, rear O2s, and all the fuel tank sensors.  I pulled the PCM from the yard-driving truck and sent to him.  He turned it quickly and I was able to put it back in the truck and drive it into the shop to pull the engine.  Removed the main engine compartment wiring harness from the C115 engine connector.  Since it was wrecked and the front end, the radiator and condenser were ruined-so I cut most of the nose off with a Sawzall.  Disconnected the transmission from the transfer case (you really need a ½” half-moon wrench for this-OR-pull the access cover).  Pulled the driveshafts and then transfer case.  Cut the exhaus