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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » How Close Should a Custom Cam Be Ground to Requested Specs? » 1/13/2024 9:30 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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Thanks everyone - I'll probably just install it and not deal w/ that cam grinder again.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » How Close Should a Custom Cam Be Ground to Requested Specs? » 1/13/2024 3:44 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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Thanks but my concern is just with whether any of you folks would reject this cam, based on the requested exhaust lift being 0.516" when I requested 0.530."  The 0.516 figure is from the cam card and I verified it when I degreed the cam.

TKOPerformance wrote:

BobE wrote:

I agree with Sal and MS.
I'll offer the following. 
How do know your measurements are more accurate than the cam grinder? 
I'm not questioning your, or his, abilities, but I've worked with difference machinists and their measurements are not always exactly the same even when using the same measuring instruments.  Also, when was the last time the calibration of measuring instruments completed?  
 

My thoughts exactly.  Its like checking your installed centerline.  If you're within 2 degrees I wouldn't try and adjust it.  There's enough hysteresis in your measuring equipment that you could be off by that much.  Plus a change of 2 degrees might move the powerband 100 RPM.

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » How Close Should a Custom Cam Be Ground to Requested Specs? » 1/13/2024 3:37 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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I'm sure my measurements with my cheap dial indicator are not more accurate than the cam grinder.  The figures I mentioned in my initial post are on the cam card.  I came very close to them when I degreed the cam. 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » How Close Should a Custom Cam Be Ground to Requested Specs? » 1/13/2024 11:22 AM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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I know that cam grinders have to use pre-made patterns to grind the lobes and so are limited to what patterns they have (unless they want to make a new pattern).  So I asked him in advance  to contact me if he couldn't get pretty close.  He replied that he could get super close but clearly his definition is different than mine.  If this was an off the shelf cam and it came this far off I would definitely send it back.  Just irritating because of the lack of communication.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » How Close Should a Custom Cam Be Ground to Requested Specs? » 1/12/2024 7:10 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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Hi,
Haven't posted in a while but this came up and I'd appreciate some feedback.  I recently ordered a custom ground cam for my 302 Windsor in my 65 FB street car from a fairly well know provider.  I requested the following specs:  215* intake @ 0.050 inches of lift, 221* exhaust @ 0.050 inches of lift, 0.525" lift intake, 0.530" lift exhaust, 110* LSA, 107* ICL. 

I was assured by the grinder that he could get "super close" to what I requested.  What I got was this: 217* intake @ 0.050 inches of lift, 221* exhaust @ 0.050 inches of lift, 0.529" lift intake, 0.516" lift exhaust, 110* LSA, 107* ICL.

So it was close except for the exhaust lift.  So my question is, would any of you reject this cam?  Thanks.
 

Tips and How-To's » DIY Adjustable Strut » 11/08/2021 7:40 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 29

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This is the second time I've tried and same thing - I attach the files (even tried one at a time), it says the upload is complete, but the pictures never make it into the message.

Nos681 wrote:

I’m able to add pictures by using desktop format on my phone and then by selecting “post reply” tab.

“upload image” tab …kinda self explanatory after that. Hope this helps.

 

Tips and How-To's » DIY Adjustable Strut » 11/05/2021 6:54 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 29

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Well, the pics went to the same place all the pics on all of my tips posts went - tiny pic heaven.  Luckily, I found them.  Now if someone can tell me how to upload pics onto this board, which doesn't seems to be able to accept them, I'll be glad to do so.





 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Current View on Quiter Mufflers » 10/28/2021 7:59 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 18

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Corresponded w/ Tenneco.com, which I believe brands Walker, Dynomax and other muffler brands, about the Walker quiet-flow mufflers (the "Cadillac mufflers") that I think MS used, which appears to be a 2-1/2" inlet and outlet muffler.  They sent me a couple of spreadsheets so I could compare mufflers.  Filtering on the basis of MS's Cadillac mufflers (Walker 21856), indicates that there is also a 2-1/4" version, which is Walker quiet-flow 21424.  This muffler has the same dimensions as MS's muffler:  Oval shape, 4-14" height and 19" body length (not including pipes), same pipe offsets, and connections, but 2-1/4" inlet and outlet.  I'm likely going to order these and install them.  Just wanted to post this info in case others like me (who aren't pushing 427 cubic inches of air thru their exhaust system) wanted the quieter sound but with a 2-1/4" inlet and outlet.  Will update post after installation.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Current View on Quiter Mufflers » 10/20/2021 4:43 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 18

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Well thanks everyone.  I'll probably either go with the 2-1/2" inlet and reduce it down to 2-1/4" or see if Walker carries those mufflers in 2-1/4".

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Current View on Quiter Mufflers » 10/18/2021 9:50 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 18

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Haven't been on in a while.  I have Dynomax 2-1/4" mufflers on my 65 FB and would like to quiet them down a bit.  Last time I checked, Walker Cadillac mufflers were recommended.  Any updates to that thinking?  Thanks.

Paint & Body » Weld-on Shelby hood scoop » 1/29/2020 7:26 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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Thanks.  Maybe at some point I'd be willing to do another, but right now I'm remodeling a house in Sequim, WA.

Paint & Body » Weld-on Shelby hood scoop » 1/27/2020 10:03 AM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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Here are some more pics:
Note that in the first, I used wet strips of blue paper towels to keep the butt weld seam cool to minimize warpage.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » My old tinypics don't seem to work » 1/19/2020 8:26 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 5

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Well that's very sad.  All those posts, especially the tips and how tos, now almost useless.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » My old tinypics don't seem to work » 1/19/2020 7:25 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 5

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I've been away for a while but just noticed that all of the pictures I previously loaded in my posts via tiny pic no longer work.  Is there a way to fix that?

Paint & Body » Weld-on Shelby hood scoop » 1/19/2020 7:09 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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I'd add a few more pics but apparently I've reached my limit for now.
 

Paint & Body » Weld-on Shelby hood scoop » 1/19/2020 6:55 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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Originally, for my hood, I'd bonded an old, cheaply made fiberglass hood skin to a metal frame and it worked for a time.  However, after a while, the ungelcoated thin fiberglass started to print through.  Plus, the flimsy fiberglass just made it untenable.  So I got an original steel hood for $100 and one of those new steel Shelby scoops and welded the two together.  The original steel hood was pretty clapped out and required a lot of body work to be usable, so I didn't feel bad about cutting a hole in it.  Below are a few pics about how I did it, using a Lincoln 140 MIG welder.  I butt welded the metal, using 0.024" wire and the usual 75/25 gas mix.  As everyone knows, the biggest problem is preventing warpage.  I took the usual approach of tack welding, skipping around the perimeter, but used butt clamps and kept wet paper towels around the weld.  The result was very little warpage.  The other thing I did was to extend the hood's sheet metal under the scoop until it met the bracing, unlike the typical approach where the hood's sheet metal is cut off right at the opening.

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Recommendations on a new timing light? » 11/11/2019 3:42 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 14

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So I recurved the distributor today using my new Innova 5568 timing light.  I don't know how long it'll hold up, but it's a very nice light.  Simple to use and the dial back feature is very handy.  My Duraspark has the 13L slots, which provides 26 crankshaft degrees.  Combined with my desired 12 degrees initial advance, that resulted in 38 total mechanical advance degrees, which was a little more than I wanted.  So instead of pulling the shaft and welding up the slot, I put three layers of shrink tube over the advance limiter post.  This reduced the advance by 2 degrees.  I also changed both springs to the black (lightest) springs in the Mr Gasket 927G kit.  That still resulted in total advance coming in at 3,500 rpms, so I bent both post a bit until total advance came in at about 2,900 rpms. 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Recommendations on a new timing light? » 11/07/2019 9:18 AM

jkordzi
Replies: 14

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DC wrote:

I have one of the Innova's and a good old fashioned one. Both give same results on basic timing. The digital is sweet though because it makes re-curving a distributor real easy. 

Re-curving the distributor is what I got it for.  I have a Duraspark and I've been reading up on how to do it.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Recommendations on a new timing light? » 11/06/2019 5:06 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 14

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Thanks.  I was actually looking at the Innova 5568. 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Recommendations on a new timing light? » 11/06/2019 2:01 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 14

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So I'm making a switch from timing tapes and and old school timing lights to an electronic dial back light that I can use to check timing advance.  Really like to hear what you folks favor.  Thanks.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 65 with 1" drop needs Alinment » 7/18/2019 8:09 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 37

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A home alignment is fairly straightforward and the necessary tools are easy to make.  Se my tips post on it: https://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=8557.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Water temperature sender resistance readings » 7/18/2019 8:06 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 13

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Check some of the aftremarket gauge manufacturers - they have different senders for various gauges and typically list their resistance values.

Ron68 wrote:

RV6 wrote:

Bolted to Floor wrote:


Gary, Where did you dig this up? It matches what I was seeing with my car at the 230 mark.
 

I grabbed this a couple of years ago off the vintage mustang forum. I have found it dead on, hence the reason I keep it.
 

Okay, that is great chart, but where can I find the right sender unit that has those resistance values??? Everywhere I check, I always get the same sensor. I have bought two new ones, both listed as applicable to a 68 with a V8 12v system. They both read 350 ohms when cold and about 33 ohms when hot in boiling water. Where do you get one that reads 10/78?? Even the one I have installed reads the same as the new ones. I am using a Fluke digital meter to read them.
 

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » TMI Sport R cushions and upholstery suck, IMHO. » 7/07/2019 8:50 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 44

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If you want comfortable seats with a classic look and a good price then look into using Fiero seats.  I have them in my 65 FB and couldn't be happier.  They sit almost as low as the originals and the seat tracks only required a bit of welding to line up with the stock holes in the pan.  Covered mine with an upholstery kit from Mr. Mike: http://mrmikes.com/fierohome.htm.  Also see his gallery: http://mrmikes.com/ponycars.htm.

I would have posted a picture or two but the upload button isn't showing up now - maybe later.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Brake line material question » 7/07/2019 8:22 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 24

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I used the copper nickel on my 65 FB.  It bends and flares very easily.  I have a post on how I straightened mine (came in a long roll).  I happen to like the color - gives the engine bay a old-time look.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Hydraulic clutch reservoir » 6/21/2019 10:56 PM

jkordzi
Replies: 8

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I'm running a hydraulic clutch.  I wanted to use a hydraulic clutch with power brakes and it seemed that was a unicorn combo due to interference with the booster, so I constructed an under dash hydraulic clutch setup.  In other words, everything is hung off of the pedal assembly.   The remote reservoir mounts to the firewall on the engine side.  The slave cylinder mounts to one of Daze's brackets on the T5.  I have a rubber pad on the floor that contacts an adjustable pedal stop welded to the clutch pedal.  The setup is very smooth with little pedal effort (despite using a King Cobra pressure plate). 

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