trying to plan a trip from SC to ft lauderdale fl.  I have Karate Nationals in ft lauderdale and was wondering  on making an extended vacation out of it. what to do, where to go, etc. either in ft lauderdale or some must see sights on the way down. want to break up the long drive.  I apologize for posting this on the mustang fyi forum.

Congratulations Gaba and Mrs Gaba! 

I have 2 girls, 2 stepsons and 0 advice to pass along to you.  Enjoy the ride!

commish10 wrote:

But at the first key turn (ignition). Not in the start position (key full right) ​ See prior posts  

I would need to see the AAW schematic.  Are you using stock ignition switch? I want to clarify what you have happening.  the starter is not cranking over the engine with the key in the start position, but it cranks in the Run position? or is that the ACC position? 

sounds like something isn't wired right on the back of the ignition switch.

AAW started out making chevy wiring  harnesses and then later branched out to do fords.
 

ignitor 1, 2 or 3?  Don't they use specific coils like Flamethrower I, 2, and 3 for each different ignitor type?  

I think you are missing something from the "I" terminal on the starter relay to the Coil positive.

the primary ignition circuit has 2 paths from the Ignition switch to the coil. One path for "cranking", and a 2nd path when the key is in the "run" position.   The "cranking" path is so that it gets a full 12 volts during cranking to make it easier to kick over. The "run" path inserts the resistance wire lowering it from 12 volts to a lower voltage so that the original points didn't get burned out and pitted. If you are not using points, then I would think the resistance wire needs to be eliminated, but this only comes into play when the car is running anyway.  Which leads me back to the "cranking" path.  I am not sure that your ignition switch is providing you with a "cranking" path to the coil.  The "cranking" path comes off the "I" terminal on the starter relay to the coil.

umm... isn't the rear bowl bigger and for the front brakes?

M1Mustang69 wrote:

Hey Markin,

Yes it is am Adjustable Prop. Valve with the Knob on top....Plumbed out of the Rear Bowel of the MC straight to the Rear Line....

Most Current Update:
-I did my Third Run today (lightly driving to break in Pads) and this last time I stopped and turned the Valve all the up (I believe up cause it seemed to get easier to turn).  The Pedal Felt firmer to press, although breaking the vehicle seemed more difficult.  But that last point doesnt have much to compare to so I will have more info tomorrow. 
Def noticed a firmer pedal though......

unfortunately achieving a photo is nearely impossible...the area is too tight and full of lines, wires and crapolla

MS wrote:

Those are moog bushings. Their design is different in that the concave side of the washers goes AWAY from the bushings.

Thanks for clearing that up. I did not know that. Learned something.
 

soonerfan wrote:

Alternator is definitely not putting out any power at all.  Checking voltage on the charge post is the exact same voltage as checking at the mega fuse or power lug.
Stator is connected to the White / black wire.  It is on the drawing, though it is kinda small.
Unfortunately, resister did nothing for me.  Basically it dropped the voltage almost an immeasurable amount of .01.
Pulley's are probably my issue.  These were the pulleys on the donor, so I didn't investigate them any further.  Crank pulley appears to be underdrive, because it is 4.5".  Stock is 6" I believe.  Alternator pulley is 2.75" and is the one that came on the 3G.  WP is amount 5 3/8.

Currently I don't have smog, PS, or A/C, though I intend to add A/C, so I stuck with a CCW water pump and when I looked into getting a dummy pulley, I could have sworn I saw my current belt layout, though I can't seem to locate it now.
Maybe I just need to get a dummy pulley for the A/C and either a bigger crank pulley or smaller alternator pulley so the ratio is correct.
I do not have a ground wire on the case of the Alternator. If I check voltage by touching the Alt case with my black probe, it shows the same as everywhere else.  Does it need a ground wire or does grounding through the mount and engine block suffice?

I would start by getting the correct stock size crank pulley. If your current pullies are a set of underdrive pullies, its possible that the wp pulley is actually larger than stock.  So you might want to get a stock wp pulley as well. The tensioner should be next to the alternator where those holes are.  You need to grind away about a triangle worth of metal to get alternator to fit right on that bracket once the tensioner is in the proper place. And get the proper length belt.  A belt that's too long won't let the tensioner tighten up enough. I don't think there is any need for a ac dummy pulley. The stock altenator was not good at charging at idle, add to it an under

do you have the right length belt? if its too long, it will be too loose, making it squeal, and not putting out enough.

do you have the right size pulley on alternator? incorrect size pulley will not turn alternator fast enough at lower rpms.

do you have another alternator to try?

can you move the battery to the front of the car closer to the alternator and see if you have an improvement? maybe the length of wire is too long from front of car to back.

terry wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Really, the ready made setups (which I also used, not knocking them), are a lot of money for two relays and some wire.  It isn't like they're plug and play.  Pretty simply you connect battery power to the relay, power out from the relay to the high or low beams, ground the relay, and connect the wire coming from the headlight switch for high and low beam to the trigger side of the relay.  I spliced into the small headlight harnesses in my '67, so instead of having to change out a whole $300 harness if I were to ever go back to stock (not likely) I could just change out two $15 harnesses. 

It's not that easy if you don't understand wiring!  Wiring is like Algebra either you get it or you don't!!  Some people cant look at a wiring diagram and just bam!!!  there it is.  If you don't understand the basics of wiring how can you know the difference between normally open and normally closed when referring to a relay.  I still have to scratch my head thinking about wiring up a relay.  Have to understand what each terminal does and how to wire it for your application.  With the ready made harness they probably already have the relays wired with color coded wires and all you have to do is connect the green wire on the harness with the green wire that goes to you headlights and so on.
I grew up with a dad who was an electrician and specialized in electronics,  I learned a lot from him and have enough knowledge and skill to rewire my entire house from weatherhead to the receptacles.  HOWEVER,  Automotive wiring, at times makes me say HMMMMM?????  I rewired my headlights to work with relays and I rewired my 65 using an under hood power distribution box from a 04 mustang which contains all the fuses and relays for the car.  It was no easy task but it wasn't brain surgery either.  NOW, there have been a few discussions on here about using resistors to accomplish various tasks in wiring,  there I'm lost!!

For thos

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone.   One less person in my family this year. My mom passed away last Monday.

Go Eagles (my old home team)  and Go Panthers (my new home team).

 

I replaced the top on a 93 myself. I'm sure you can search the archives and see pics on it. It wasn't easy and was time consuming.  Check for bent bows and bad parts that need to be replaced before the new top goes on such as latches and latch pins.  Keep all the old peices of top to keep for template purposes. You can remove the entire top frame as one piece, and set it aside til the car is painted. I would save the top for last.  That piece of fabric that connects the bows, I would leave that on and replace it one side at a time to keep the bows aligned.

the wife installed a camera that is strapped to a tree. it takes pics on a SD card. It works on batteries. It also takes night vision pics.  With that camera, she takes the SD card out one a week and looks at the footage. Its motion activated so it only kicks on when there is motion in front of it. we are able to see if anyone comes down our driveway, and thier license plate, etc. It also rings to an external device inside the house when the motion sensor goes off so that we know someone or something passed in front of that tree in our driveway. no one even knows its there.  I have several others  in the backyard as well.  This is only part of our security system. It doesn't prevent someone from coming onto the property, nor does it provide any real security. it just provides pics of proof someone came onto the property.