MS wrote:

Not sure I understand both fans running at both speeds? Clarify?

When using the built in connections on the shroud, when your controller calls for low speed, then both fans turn on at low speed.  When your controller calls for high speed, both fans operate at high speed (as opposed to one fan being the low speed fan and the other fan being a high speed fan of the dual fan setup).

I put a contour fan in a first gen S10 truck with a SBC because there was no room for the preferred mechanical fan and proper shroud.  Installation of the fan was as simple as trimming a bit of plastic on the shroud and fabbing up a couple of brackets.

I went through 2 failed attempts to properly control the fan (including an early DCController) before arriving at the solution that worked flawlessly until the truck was sold a couple years later.  I used a Volvo 2 speed fan relay from a pick & pull, and a 2 speed temp switch for a VW/Audi, initially mounted in the lower radiator hose but later moved to a bung to the radiator tank when the old, cheap eBay rad leaked.  I found the idea for the combo of OEM Volvo & VW/Audi parts on the internet.

https://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=2272

The carb on my nephew’s VERY original 66 coupe(200/6) needs a rebuild. I need to find a carb kit for it and cannot find any identifying tags or stampings on the carb.   At the Bako Bash, Jeff gave me an Autolite carb and a Motorcraft carb that he says were both on 66 T code Mustangs with the 200 engine. The carb on the car is not like either of the carbs he gave me.

If I could figure out how to post pics, I would...🙄

The carb on the car has a fuel inlet on top of the carb bowl, with the fuel line running parallel to the valve cover. Auto choke is on the back of the carb nearest the firewall. It has 2 separate tubes for choke heat and vac for the advance on the Load O Matic dizzy.

Any ideas? (On either the type of carb, or how to add pics lol)

Oh man!

My 66 had a standard manual box.  I had Randy rebuild it when I tore the car down.  The car eventually got an R&C MII front end, so I sold the unused rebuilt box to BillyC here, who drove it for years and loved it.  I have not heard from BillyC lately.

My 65 GT had less than good manual steering.  I pulled the box and had Chocko rebuild it.  He said it was a standard box from a 62 Falcon, but replaced everything it needed in short order.  It was great after that.  I did manage to get an original 65 GT box from a forum member here (who went Borg on his 65).  The current owner of my 65 had Chocko rebuild the 65GT box and loves it.  I still have regular contact with the current owner.  He sent me a video of driving down the road at highway speed, praising the car, and how it handles.  

My current Mustang has a power R&P, complete with the whining Ford pump. 

I loved the manual steering for everything except parallel parking.

I would check with your state's DMV.  I know in Illinois the law is different.  It is a criminal offense to "cut & paste" a VIN in Illinois.  We are required to contact the State Police, who will pay a visit to observe the VIN on the apron.  They will then prepare a State Police VIN tag and permanently affix it to the panel below the door latch, and then you can do what you please with the apron.

The Illinois State Police are very aware that you can order a door plate with any data you choose, and also know that doors or door tags can easily be exchanged between cars, and treat the door tags as meaningless.

Ed, that looks like a brace between the door jamb and the wheelhousing, down low by the floor . I believe it supports the quarter window regulator mechanisms.  My 66 coupe had them. I dont recall if my FB did. Let me check the coupe tomorrow.

I don’t recall seeing them for sale, but I can get measurements on where they go.

Well, I went back and reviewed MS's mini bash rules from his 12/2021 post prior to a Bryant TX mini bash.  He stated vehicles must be 25 year old Fords, so perhaps you can revoke the Fox exception. LOL

I guess I need to go pull the cover off the car and fix the power steering leak.....

Thanks for organizing this, BB.

As an aside, I visited the Corev*** museum in Bowling Green KY a couple of weeks ago (10 years since the sinkhole incident).  They had 3 engines on display:  a complete Ford Flathead, a Ford Flathead block with Ardun heads, and a token SBC.  Can't wait to see 600 in one place!

My set of hipos went to JKB's parts stash.  I hope they end up in his son's Cougar.

Over the years, I have had the joy of getting a handful of older Honda motorcycles back on the road (60's and 70's stuff).  I have an ultrasonic cleaner I use to clean the carbs.  I use diluted Simple green.  Works like magic, but it does discolor the cast aluminum.  Works great on curb picked snow blowers too, for those of you familiar with those machines.....

I believe that to be Jerry F's Franklin TN Bash.  It was my first Bash.  I see 2 of Jerry's Mustangs in that pic, along with Tubo's Non Miss May.

Here is an update:

I finally got down to my nephews place and spent some time with him under the hood of his 66.  It has different symptoms than were initially reported to me.

Amp gauge stays smack dab in the middle like it has for the 15 years he has owned the car.  Probably non-functional.  We did not spend time on it.

Oil pressure gauge pegs high as soon as key is in "on" position.  We removed the gauge feed wire from the sending unit an gauge pegs low.  When I ground the gauge feed wire it pegs high.  Seems that gauge is operable.  We'll order a sending unit and swap that out.

Temp gauge starts low and climbs higher as we drive.  Based upon the bearing noise I hear from the water pump, I now presume the gauge may be accurate.  I forgot my infrared thermometer so I could not verify temps.  I'll bring my thermometer when we swap out the pump and thermostat.

My nephew has a real nice 66 coupe.  Bone stock T Code, with one repaint about 20 years ago.  Recently the gauges for Oil, Temp, and Amps have pegged to the right.  Another symptom is that it slowly drains the battery.  Obviously a short somewhere.  Gas gauge works properly.

He installed a new under hood gauge feed harness.  The problem still exists.

I pulled out my Average Joe wiring diagrams to see if I could recommend a wire that may be the culprit.  Nothing jumps off the page to me.

Any recommendations on where/which wire to check first?