On my 66 coupe I have 4 wheel discs. Fronts are 2008 GT, rears 2017 GT. MC is from a 2000 Mustang V6, booster is from a 89 Mustang 4 cylinder. I’ve installed the Mustang Steve power brake conversion. My problem is the pedal rides considerably lower than the clutch pedal and pedal free travel seems excessive. Rears are adjusted per MS instructions. Other than that the brakes work fine it’s just that the pedal seems very close to the floor.
my question is if I were to extend the booster input rod to bring the pedal up even with the clutch so as to have more space above the floor when braking will I be creating another problem?

find out monitor size

I had a 73 Gremlin X Levi Edition. I loved that car. Paid $800 for it. The guy said the motor was shot cause it smoked a lot on start up. Turned out it had bad valve seals. Less than $10 to fix it back in the day. The car was only5 years old when I bought it. Sold it a year later for $1200. I’m one of the few that liked the look of it.

I wired mine to the ignition switch.

I don’t have a schematic of how I did it to my 66. I really didn’t need one. I just used two heavy duty relays I had lying around. One for low beam one for high. I used the wires from the light switch to trigger the relay. I brought fused power  directly from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the lights. Very probably the easiest mod I’ve done to my car to date.

TKOPerformance wrote:

BillyC wrote:

Having owned both, a 59 Impala four door hard top and a 66 coupe I would put my money on the Chevy.

Also full frame vs. unibody.

More like swatting a fly with a hammer.

TKOPerformance wrote:

I've often wondered if Hudson hadn't been circling the drain when they were building the Hornet what we would think of I6s today.  If the designer had the budget to do the R&D on the next evolution of that engine I think it would have been awesome.  308 cubic inches (imagine that), and its biggest issue was the valve in block design that limited breathing and RPM potential.  His next design would have gone to OHV and triple carburetion. 

Same guy I believe created the 300 I6 at Ford, and I can tell you, I drove an F150 with the 4.9EFI and it was a beast.  I guarantee it made more torque at a lower RPM than any 302, and probably rivaled the 351. 

I'll add the Nissan RB26DETT to the list of bad @$$ I6s.  BMW also built a DOHC I6 for their M1 supercar that was a monster.  A cut down 4 cylinder version was used in the first M3 (E30) and made almost 200HP in the '80s without a turbo. 

I had a 52 Hudson back in the day. Duel carb 308 in line 6 with 3 speed stick and overdrive. Literally a bullet prof engine. I always dreamed of putting it in a lighter body. The Hornet body was pretty hefty.

Toploader wrote:

I didn't think 15W40 was bad. At the last oil change I couldn't find any 10W30, so I went with the 15W40 instead. My climate doesn't get super cold and rarely dips below 40DegF, so I tend to look more at the second number and what the oil does at operating temperatures.
With the oil drips, I wondered about something with a higher second number to see if that would help.
I thought synthetic might be ok if I went thicker, but I will avoid it.
What oil should I be running on an engine of this age, with around 50,000 miles on it?

The 289 in my 66 has over 110k miles on it. I use Pennzoil High Milage non synthetic 10w30. It idles with 40 psi oil pressure and uses no oil between changes.