Back up for Steve. The entire firewall moves from middle of car all the way left. Rust free Virgin car. Moving right where booster and pedal assembly is bolted, and flexes entire firewall

Firewall flexing at the actual booster assembly mount location, not the firewall adjuster area.  He has the reinforcement plate pedal assembly too

Those were all cable driven.  You should be able to just use mustang Steve's clutch cable conversion

On a t5, the shifter sits directly in the shifter block, which sits directly upon a stationary shift plate and ball.  The shift rail for 1-4 enter it horizontally.  5th comes nowhere near that shifter block.  I can say 100% for sure at least with late model ford transmissions, resting your hand on the shifter will do nothing

I run the weaker t5 behind a 375 horse 5.0 with explorer 373 rear in my 66 and it holds up just fine.  The t5z is not much stronger for what you pay, they're all going to break just the same when they break.  The z is a nice upgrade if you otherwise plan on replacing most of the gears anyhow.  The gearbox has the z kit for under $500.  Don't play more then $100 for a t5 needing a rebuild, or more then $350 for a good used unit

Sorry for the delay, car is sold

I installed the cpp setup.  Must have been an eBay mistake when they set up the auction, as they're near me... I bought my kit in person and they all know that the pitman arm needs to be swapped out.

This box has done amazing quality.  I spent under $600 out the door, and used a fox power steering pump.  It's 13.6 quick ratio and feels as tight as rack and pinion.  Its worked out so well my brother and two friends have bought the kit.  Same quality as Borgeson but much less price wise.

Here are a couple of videos of my cpp setup
https://youtu.be/wa9qcdj9_Dk
https://youtu.be/_YBWqeEt3Wg
https://youtu.be/OPpZJzXU42E

Checking now

I can build you one.  I have a decade experience with t5s.  You looking for something cheap or fully rebuilt

I always love the posts from those condemning peel and seal and similar, but have personally never tried it.  As for the smell, most never smell anything, or if at all it out gasses quickly and never smells again.

I have original flowmasters with dumps and it's stupid loud, Loud enough to make my ears ring.

Over the past week i ripped out the old carpet, and covered the pans with lowes peel and seal, then added mass backed carpet.

The difference was night and day.  I was hitting 80+ db at idle before, and now i hit 68-70 db, and that's without part of the rear pan covered and no seats, and with the thicker carpet

It quieted it down so much im in shock.

I spent $50.  Do what you guys want, but it works.

Hakan wrote:

In my case, Explorer drive shaft too long by ~2.4" when used with a T5 and a '72 N-case 9-inch on my '67. Custom rear coilover 3-link suspension might also add to the equation. I'm planning on shortening the Explorer driveshaft.


That strange fork thingie sticking out of the shifter box on the T5 is something I've made to move the shifter (modified to make it short throw) backwards, here's a video:



 

 
My bad, you're right, its too long.  I took mine into inland empire drive line, they told me the aluminum Ford shafts are thin, but aren't designed to be cut down, and 50% of the time it ruins the shaft, so I just decided to have a fresh one made up.

Helping out a friend.   351c going into a 67 coupe.  He's going to run a t5 from a 2000 v6 mustang that has the larger 11" bell housing.  He plans on running the oem flywheel

-I believe the oem 351c flywheel is 11" right?
-can we run a late model v6 11" diaphram clutch, or the 11" cobra/mach one 2003/2004 style clutch?  Will an 11" clutch always bolt to an 11" flywheel, or does he have to run the vintage 3 finger style clutch.

Just trying to figure out what to tell him to buy to make this t5 work with the larger bell that we have.  Thanks