I was sick for a week and a half and haven't been out of the house. I couldn't believe the price jump when I went to get gas.

BobE wrote:

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I'll post how I make out. 

Thanks Bob for posting that question about paint, that was one other thing on my list I forgot to ask. Also thanks for your other post about LED's.

Greg B wrote:

Curious as to how you cut down the lighting on that amp gauge. I stopped fiddling with mine because I sent the amp gauge in for a conversion, but I'm never one to quit thinking about things and I thought up a few different ideas like a small drink can or even using a bearing installer as a die to make a new face with a lip.

The white face volts overly I now have.

There was a few things I wanted to do when I downloaded the white face gauges. Test what the white face looked like. like, add LED's and fix the extra light on the voltmeter. Didn't realize it bothered me until you brought it up. I just cut about an inch off a paper towel roll. I split it in one spot and painted it black inside. I connected it to the outside of the hole on the outer cover with silicon caulking. The towel roll was smaller than the gauge hole, so this left a gap at the top. When I put it together it didn't fit tight against the voltmeter. This lets a little light in the bottom like the other gauges. Really it was a toilet paper roll, but I didn't want to say that. 
The only other thing is I wish I read Bob E's post on LED's before buying some. I forgot to order adjustable LED's. Guess I'll order more and use these for something else.

I downloaded the 66 Gauge template, John helped post, to see how I like them with my electronic speedometer. I changed the DC Amp template to work with my voltmeter. This was a quick first attempt just to see how it looks. I was wondering what is the best adhesive to use to attach templates. I just used past but I'm sure that will dry up and peel off. Also do you just print on paper or something else. 

The first are always exciting! Prayers are with you for the surgery. 

For that price buy 2. Amazing how much inflation has went up since then. 

Looks and sounds sweet

Paint  looks really good.  Nice to have good friends. Looks good.

Most people just buy a volt meter the same size and replace it. Sunpro makes a reasonably priced one (around $20). Just find the size and style that matches what you got.

BobE wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:

Sounds like a voltage issue. As Dan has suggested, check voltage with the motor disconnected, then check with the motor connected and operating.  I suspect crappy/dirty/corroded connection (s) somewhere.  Maybe at the firewall where cabin power comes in.  You can run a hot jumper directly from the battery to the motor and see it works better, then you'll know if it's related to a poor connection.

Ditto BB's response.  You may want to try one of the products offered from Deoxit, I've it on many of the OEM connections on my 65 with success. I have "Deoxit, #5L-25CA (5% Solution)".  (That cost a lot less when I purchased many years ago)
https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/
 

I don't think measuring the voltage with the motor disconnected will tell you anything. Even if there is a bad connection prior to the motor, with the motor unplugged it will show full voltage. This could make you falsely think there is not a problem.  Voltage reading near the motor with the motor connected and running should be near full voltage. I like Bob's idea of a jumper from battery to the wiper motor. If it works full speed then you probably have a bad connection in your wiring. If it still runs slow then either a bad motor as Rufus said or bad ground. 
 

Rufus68 wrote:

Greg B wrote:

Rufus68 wrote:

I've never heard of that kind of restriction on a driver's license.  What state is your license in? (just curious)

http://www.education4drivers.com/missouri/drivers-license-restrictions.htm

I am A/B/T/Y
 

Wow, Missouri loves their restriction codes.  They used every letter of the alphabet except for Q, V, and X.  But then they defined U as an uncoded restriction.  So they have all the bases covered.
 

You aren't kidding love their codes. Someone in Missouri can't drive if they don't have a seat or back cushion? Why do have a 'B' if they have a 'T' and a 'Y'? 

Yea the slow roll key start saved my but a few times.

Been driving stick all my life. There were times when I didn't have a vehicle with an auto in my driveway. Up to about ten or twelve years ago, I always had at least 1 of my main vehicles with a stick. (Last was a 04 Fusion) Agree with Sal, just habit pushing in the clutch before starting. There were times when I was in a automatic I'd catch myself reaching for a clutch.

Very nice, good back ground on how it all came together.