Daze, a couple of things worth checking.  Check the primary throttle shaft for wear - usually on the throttle linkage side.  Just wiggle the throttle lever up and down and side to side.  There should be very little wiggle.  And, check for the secondaries closing smoothly.  They can get gunked up and not close fully.
I have a 1.12 on my 302 and it runs well.  It was a "quadrajet" conversion done by Jon at Pony Carbs probably 15 years ago.  He took the 1.12 carb, and put plastic inserts into the primary venturii to get the carb down to the 380 cfm or so.  It worked really well for about 12 years, then the ignition coil went bad, I got a backfire through the carb, and it melted the venturii inserts.  So, I took them out, cleaned and re-gasketed the carb., and am still running it with no problems.  It is surely not as peppy as the Pony Carb modified carb., but it runs well.
Good Luck.

So, let me try to understand this.  Diesel motor oil in a non-diesel engine.  Should I run diesel fuel in that same non-diesel engine?
Diesel engines work in a totally different environment than automotive gasoline engines.  Different compression ratios, different loads, different rpm ranges.  I'm not convinced.
I like the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Car Motor Oil:  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10679-1/overview/


 

Al, this is what I use in my 302 with flat tappet cam.  It has about 200,000 miles on this rebuild and is still going strong.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10679-1

Kenbr, I had that happen with my F-150 once.  The rod that goes from the booster diaphragm to the master cylinder piston came loose from the booster diaphragm.  When the engine made vacuum, it applied the brakes without any input from me.  When the engine was turned off and the vacuum bled out of the booster, the brakes released.  Until now, that is the only time I've seen this happen.
Good Luck

Don't let the lack of heat be the deal breaker for the Beetle.  I lived in Germany in the mid '60s, and saw plenty of Beetles with auxiliary heaters - powered by gasoline.  They got plenty hot and quickly.  Read the paragraph - About Gas Heaters - towards the bottom of this article if you are interested:  http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqheat.htm
Enjoy.

Aw shucks, Tim.  Blush-blush.  Warn't nothin'.  You are very welcome.

Well, silly me.  I thought it might be useful information for the next 'Stanger that was gonna put the weatherstripping on the rear window.
Later.

Tim, no I have not.  Mine is not that far along, and it's a coupe.  I have used their stuff on my '83 F-150, and on customer cars with very good results.  On my own F-150, I had used window channel, and door seals from one of the big classic truck suppliers.  I don't remember their name, but I think it was initials, like L**.  Hint, hint.  Their stuff lasted about 2 years.  Changed out with the Steelerubber items, and 7 or 8 years later, still going strong.  As for customers, I have had no complaints, but don't really track the longevity.
As far as your issue, give them a call.  I have found them to be friendly and helpful.
Good Luck
 

James, you are over thinking this.  Drum brakes are pretty simple and basic.  If you have the drums off and are watching the pistons push the shoes out, you are not getting any useful info.  If both sides move the brake shoes out, and they aren't leaking, you're probably good.  They don't have to be synchronous.  If the drum is scored all around from rivets grinding into it, it needs to be "turned"( re faced), or replaced if out of spec.  If you do one side and not the other, your are asking for problems.  I don't understand your adjusting one brake tighter than the other.  The automatic adjusters will take care of the proper adjustments.  If it is pulling to one side or the other, the adjustment (if properly done) is not the problem.  If you tighten the adjuster to the point there  is drag on one side, you are exacerbating the problem, not helping it.
Have you checked to see if the brake shoes are "rocking" in the drum?

Oops.  Sorry, I did not see the address on your posts yesterday.
So, here goes - with the brake drum off and the shoes off, place one shoe in place in the drum, holding each end with each hand.  Now, try to move your right hand upwards and your left hand downwards at the same time, while applying a little pressure on the shoe into the machined surface of the drum.  Then, change the direction that you were moving your hands, up and down.  The ends of the shoe should rock freely up and down.  If it does not, it will not release properly from the drum when you release the pressure on the brake pedal.  It needs a little spring action to push the ends off the machined surfaces.  If that does not happen, you will have a "dragging" brake shoe which will cause the steering to pull and the brake drum to over heat.  As far as tightening one side up to counter act the pull, not a good idea.  Adjust the brakes with the adjusters when you first install the shoes, and then leave it alone.  Be sure the correct adjuster - the part with the star wheel - is on the correct side.  They should be marked "L" and "R".
This is hard to explain, I hope you understand it.
Good Luck

13j13, from your post, it sounds like you have not pulled the drums to check things out.  Since you have had problems from day one, you should check the parts in your brake drum first.  It really sounds like the shoes are not fitted to the drums properly.  I know how to check this, and could show you in 30 seconds, but I cannot explain it here.  If you are around the central Texas area, I will check it out for you.  I'm in Georgetown.
Drum brakes are really not that complicated, just most folks never trouble shot (shooted?) them.
Google Tiny Lund and see what speeds he was running his Fords at, what trophies he took, and what brakes he ran.
Good Luck

X2 what Boom said.  If you've never used it before, be verrrry careful.  It is a very light oil with very fine graphite particles in it.  It is really easy to drip some of it where it should not go, and then it's hard to clean up.  If you pull the cable out to lube it, put a beach towel on the seat cushion and floor to keep from getting it where you don't want it.
Enjoy

GregB, I just found the article that describes the shock tower welding, and other things to stiffen up the Mustang.  http://www.sancospecialties.com/mustang.HTM