anyone know if the t-5 & old toploader bellhousings are the same as far as the position of the fork where it exits the bellhousing? i have someone wanting me to build brackets for a hydraulic setup based on the t-5, toploader bell & adapter plate. he can get the adapter cheaper than the t-5 bells are going for around here & i'm curious if my brackets based on t5 & bell will line up with the toploader fork. thanks! 

Alan wrote:

I had trouble with my dash lights. I moved the fuse in the holder and mine came back on. I have since cleaned the fuse block.
 

i have to do this about 2-3 times a year on mine. only the one fuse/socket acts up, but know when i have no dash lights its time to clean it again.
 

it was still 75 in my shop again today....

not sure what your use will be "post project", but i have a set of old GM 5x4.5 wheels that i took a carbide burr to, slotted the holes a bit & now have a unilug set of wheels to use as shop rollers that fit most everything that will come into the shop car wise.

i just installed a set of the metal/rubber v/c gaskets. always hated cork..i use the old school "indian head shellac" & glue the gasket to the valve covers, bolt the two covers together overnight with the gaskets sandwiched between, then the next day you can easily drop em' on, bolt em up & go.

i you do decide on tint, make sure your glass & all wiper strips are in good shape. if not, first time you roll down/up you will scratch the tint & ruin it.

not a mustang, but i turned this:



into this:

i recently picked up a couple of these new in the box for $15 at a antique/salvage store. i figure i'll save them for when my old style plastic  jugs give out.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EAGLE-Type-I-Safety-Can-2W313?Pid=search

before too long, 5 gal cans will classify you as a terrorist, we'll all have to use 1 gal jugs & refill them alot!

my pads came with some "peel & stick" anti noise shims instead of the usual "tube of goo". i have mine pinpointed. i currently have it up in the air & can rotate the tire by hand until it goes "squeek". its on the right rear.

finally have the carb fixed & now have a squeek in the right rear brake. they are mark VII, oem turned rotors, reman calipers. it seems to be one spot each rotation that it squeeks. touch the pedal a bit & it stops so thinking it is something to do with the pads ( i "think" they are ceramic pads) any quick fix??

SEM dye in the spray can is about the best stuff out there for interior parts. i changed all my interior parts from blue to black on the 69 with the SEM dye.

 

if you have trouble finding the backspacing needed with the ridler, look at the boss 338. same wheel, but available with different offsets. i originally wanted the ridler's, but couldnt find a backspcing that would work, so went with the boss wheels. foose also has a wheel thats identical, but think its a "chrome only" option, also with slighly different offsets.

ok, need a couple ideas here if anyone has any experience with the holley 4160 with the non adjustable float carbs like this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80457s

i can crank the car up, no problem. let it sit & run until it warms up & the choke kicks off, no problem. i can rev it up & it drops back to idle,again, no problem. i can drive the car around the block & it runs great, but when i stop, it wont idle , stumbles & quits.  i pulled the shaker & air cleaner assy & gas is flooding out of the secondaries, mainly the left (drivers side) & continues for a min after the car is off. this is my first "newfangled" holley without the adjustable needle & seat & no sight plug. any ideas?