For a 1970 Mustang. Please let me know if you have one somewhere.

Go over to
http://www.pro-touring.com
and look up a guy names CrestonWizard. He has done this and can tell you whatever you need to know about it.;

Again, call Randy at http://www.stangerssite.com
 

mustang stu wrote:

Dear Mach1 Ron, Thank you for the good information, I contacted randy from stangerssite.com as you
said he is very knowledgeable.He emailed me the measurements and measuring points,I was able to
adjust the control valve to the center link in about 3 minutes. Randy explained everything very clearly
making easy for me to adjust the valve to the link. Thank You Mach1 Ron and Thank You Randy
mustang stu

 Glad he could help. I learned more about Factory Power Assist steering from him than I probably need to know. But my Power Assisted steering is working terrific.

I'll throw in my 2 cents.... I have ran the 2 degree shims when I first put in the 5 speed, changing from a Top-loader. Fixed the vibration issue, however I was running 51/2 leaf reverse eye springs and they didn't move hardly at all. That being said, I recently did some changing and am now running the 41/2 mid eye springs, and had to take the shims out... Remember for stockish type leafs, you'll get about 2 degrees roll up upon acceleration and driving. You can also have too much angle like I think mine ended up being before I took the shims out. I'd try taking out the 2 degree shims and see if the vibration gets Worse or Better and go from there. I know it's a PITA, but I've been there and have been chasing this last deal for a couple of months myself. 

mustang stu wrote:

 I'm thinking I will get a
control valve,pump,slave cylinder, 4 hoses and idler arm. These parts are 49 years old will probably  leak
and cause me problems if not replaced.

When you go to get this stuff, check out http://www.stangerssite.com/
He really knows mustang power steering. He rebuilt ALL of my stuff when I put it back on last year. No issues at all. Car steers like a dream, after having manual steering for several years. Glad I went back.

Hornman wrote:

Well Sal, that is the LA River and you forgot Grease, Adam 12, and every other cop show set in LA.

And of course the Favorite Mustang Movie..... Gone in 60 Seconds.....Well, a fav of mine anyway....

I'l be there

MS wrote:

If one were to NEED the wedge kit because the UCAs were moved more than 1", it would make more sense and cost a ton less to just pie cut the UCA right inboard of the balljoint, bend the end of the UCA downward and then reweld it and add some strengtheners.  It accomplishes exactly the same thing but with zero cost.  Also, bolts don't like being run through angled wedges.  It just gives more places for something to come loose.  Angling the UCA outboard end is free if you can weld.

I have the 1 3/4" drop on the Mach, been that way for 20 years and I have been running the Negative Wedge Kit as well. Never hurt my tires, Alignment is no problem, I have taken the stuff apart several times for spring swaps and such. Always bolts back together just fine...nothing has ever come loose. That's just my $.02

Also depends on your Tire size, as I have 275x40x17's in the back of the Mach and run a 3.89:1 gear with a T5. At 70MPH it is only revving 1900 RPM.... So take the Tire circumference in consideration also. BTW, I also run a Detroit Locker and LOVE It....

I'd call the manufacturer and ask them.

Depending on what MSD Box he's running, he can retard the timing from it when starting also....

Hard to get the one going to the Thermostat housing made up in the coil stuff...