Awesome.  Fixing a shake is one of the most satisfactory things you can do with an old car.  It transforms the way that it drives and how much you want to drive it.  Congratulations.....finding and fixing a shake can be a major pain.

What is it with everyones dog dying this week?  I am not making light of this, I feel your pain and sorrow.  Its just that you are the third person this week I know who has lost their dog.  It is a strange coincidence.  You have our sympathies.

I'm the same.  As has already been pointed out, you cannot get a socket on all the bolts anyway.  My approach on all headers, which has worked fine on these headers, is to put a box end wrench on them and basically tighten them until I cannot stand hurting my hands any more.  I believe, but have been unable to confirm, that this is the magical "right before it breaks" point that Mustang Steve was refering to.  No exhaust leaks for over 15 years with these same headers.

I don't think anybody has addressed this directly, but I would stay away from the Granada brakes on a 65-66 car.  The brakes are not a direct swap, you have to use the Granada spindles.  Granada spindles on the 65-66 cars creates a big issue with bump-steer.  The problem becomes very pronounced if you lower the car any.  Stick with something like Mustang Steve's brake kit.

The MAP sensor will be a small flat thing mounted on the firewall directly behind the upper intake.....if you have a Mass Air sensor on your car, then it should have a vacuum hose connected to it from the intake manifold.....if you do not have Mass Air, then it should be open to the atmosphere to read Barametric pressure.

I am with BobN on this one.....remove both the EGR valve and the IAC valve and clean them THOROUGHLY with a carb or throttle body cleaner.

Yes Steve, I hate to say it, but your describing the same problem that we had with our cars with the pump mounted in front of the tank.  Things were fine until the temps rose above 90 degrees outside, then all bets were off as to when it would stall.  Like you said, wait 5-10 minutes and they would start and run fine again for a while.

We changed to tank mounted pumps and drove our cars for well over 100,000 trouble free miles.  I know other people have used external pumps with no problems what-so-ever, but my 66 and my dad's 67 went through about four or five different fuel pumps between the two cars before we gave up and went in tank.

BTW.....both of our cars used Ford based EFI systems, my 5.0 used all stock efi components and EECIV, and my dad's heavily modified 351W used a EECIV as well.  His car ran fine, but I'm sure he was pushing the limits of the stock EECIV with his engine, I'm not sure you could have done the same with that 427.

Good luck.

Lance: " If the various stock 5.0 EFI computers are going to demand or expect a particular firing order, doesn't this preclude me from using stock EFI computers?"

As it has already been aluded to, the stock Ford EECIV system is a Sequential Multiport Injection System.....so the computer times the firing of the injector with the opening of the intake valve for each and every cylinder individually.  Does this mean that it can't be off and work just fine....heck no.  Some systems are "batch fire" and would fire all four cylinders on one side of the engine at the same time.  Sure it is not as good, but it still worked. 

What you need is to make sure that you have computer for an H.O. engine.  The H.O.'s all used the 1-3-7 firing order, the "mom and pop" 5.0's like what went into cars like the Crown Vic and Grand Marquis and stuff actually used the old 1-5-4 firing order.  All Mustangs used the H.O. engine and cam, so they are the prime source for finding a computer.  I think the A9L has been mentioned as one of the top units to find.  It should support up to around 400 hp without freaking out.....I'm not sure I can promise much beyond that.

 

Don't worry about if this is a good deal or not.....it is a Great deal for $100.  As Raymond_B said, the manifolds are worth more than that.  Most places will hit you up about $100 for the wire harness.  Computers are in the same ballpark ($75-125 depending on the place).  This is a very good deal.

The throttle body reminds me of an Explorer type, which makes me think that was the source of the manifolds.  That is not a bad thing.....same performance potential as the Cobra Intake, because that is basically what it is. 

Ok, I have sat out of this one long enough.  I too have been a long time convert to EFI.  I was actually one of the first.  It was around 1990 and Ford had changed over to Mass Air for a couple of years by then on the HO's.  They ran great and adjusted for hopping up the engine gracefully (unless you got too much cam). 

I drove my 67 Coupe every day and I was sick and tired of getting out of the car smelling like a gas can and having to almost constantly adjust the idle circuit on the Holley.  It was a pain in the ***, and I hated the smell.  I know I was partly at fault with the smell because I ran an open air cleaner, but carbs always smell anyway.

Then it hit me.....the new 5.0 EFI intake would bolt right onto my old 289.  I would just need to feed it the proper fuel pressure and wire it in.  In these pre-internet days finding out the information proved to be challenging, and I was met with a lot of skepticism by experts and proclomations of "it will NEVER run" from people who thought they were experts.  I eventually preservered and gathered enough information to make the swap.  Despite the fact that the manifold I purchased had been sitting for a couple of years and the injectors were hideously clogged, it fired up and managed to actually idle with only about 3 injectors working correctly.

Since then I have logged over 75,000 miles with the factory EFI on my car.  The only problems I ever had with it involved a dead relay to ECU and trouble with inline fuel pumps.  It did not matter how low I tried to mount the fuel pump in front of the tank, it would have trouble pulling fuel and it would overheat and vapor lock.  I tried several different brands of pumps, same result.  I eventually installed a fitting into the top of my fuel tank and intalled the late model syle pump inside the tank.  I drove this car with fuel injection without any incidents for the next several years, and as I said before, put over 75,000 trouble free and non-gasoline-smel

I would go with the 2 1/2" system that you already have.  Not only is it a good system, but consider that Ford put a 2 1/2" system on the stock 5.0 Mustangs.  Yes it was a more restrictive system, but the engine in those cars were considerably less capable than what you will have.

Its pretty much the springs.  Those squishy rubber bushings they put in most suspension pieces from the factory really absorb the imperfections in the road, but the stock upper control arms don't have those.  This is pretty much the only place you can use heim joints and not adversly reduce ride quality.  I vote that this is mostly a result of too much spring rate.....although a stiff enough shock assembly will contribute as well. 

SWEET