I understand.  It is not hard, it is only time consuming to get things "perfect".

I made all new fuel and brake lines for my 66 coupe when I built it. I started with a 25' coil of tubing and it turned out great. Take your time getting things straight before you make the bends. Get the best flare tool you can buy and there are suppliers out there to either flare the duck fitting right into the fuel line, or using the AN style adapter to get things working.

This is a project that traverses all makes and you can find some great project diaries on the internet describing exactly what to look out for. 

I encourage you to do it. My preference is not to use stainless though. I like the green or brown tubing you can get at Autozone in coils. It bends and flares really easy and the coating is a corrosion inhibitor. And it is cheap.

BobN

I have a 66 coupe with a T5 and a Pro-50 shifter. I am using the factory FOX shifter handle. I removed the rubber isolator which results in oversized holes for the mounting bolts. I used washers and just tilted the handle all the way back and tightened it down. It has held tight for many years like this. 

I am just over 6 feet tall and I can shift into all 6 gears without even leaning over or reaching uncomfortably. I used the deluxe shifter boot and mount and I had to make a 1" spacer out of wood (painted back) to raise the boot up to clear the PRO-50 shifter. No layman has ever questioned if it was not stock and it works great. Best of all...you can get those handles for free in the right places.  There is already so much chrome on these cars that a black shifter handle is not bad.

BobN

My last car had a supercharger on it and a radical engine. I only made about 11 inches of vacuum at idle and the brakes worked just fine. There were a few situations in traffic where I would run out of vacuum for soft brakes, but it was never as hard as the manual brakes our cars came with. While driving around it was fine, just make sure you have a good check valve and small reservoir and it will be just like (intended?) stock.

BobN

I have a 66 coupe with a 5.0 that I converted to a carburetor to simplify getting the car on the road. It works great, but I want to go ahead and put the fuel injection equipment back on the engine to prepare for some upcoming upgrades.

Does anyone know if a victor 5.0 intake will fit on a 289/302 with a stock hood? Also, will it interfere it the regular export brace? I would rather not purchase/engineer some sort of brace replacement.

Thanks, 
BobN

[img]http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/Turn5/56510?$enlarged810x608$[/img]

I went to the parts store with my pump and the hose Borgeson provided. I looked at every power steering hose they had and found one that fit my pump and was about the right length. At the steering box, it is an inverted flare, so I cut the end off of the borgeson hose and the end off of my new hose and flared the line with the right nut on there.

It weeps a little bit, but after 15,000 miles I still haven't had to add any extra fluid.
BobN

I had the steering shaft come out of the rag joint while on the freeway. I had a small fender bender and only walked away with a bent rim.

I ended up drilling the shaft for the set screw and using locktite red on it. I have put over 11,000 miles on my car with the borgeson box and I haven't had any issues with the rag joint itself.

BobN

Run power through the switch on the transmission and then ground the lights locally. That way you only have one wire going back there for the reverse lights instead of two.

I pulled switched power from the ignition switch.

BobN

I got all of my seat belts and hardware from www.seatbeltsplus.com. It is much cheaper than scott drake and is nice grade 8 hardware. The threads are the same as factory and you shouldn't have any issues.

Here is a hardware kit that should have everything you need (you will need two of them, but at $5 each it is not a big deal)
http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/product/FHD-1046-3.html

BobN

I can lock it with the key, like normal. I can unlock it like normal with the key as well. If it is locked and someone (usually my kids) tries to open the door while it is locked, the key will not work when I try to open it.

So long as no one tries both sides, I am fine and I just unlock the other door and reach across and open it by turning the door handle to unlock and open the door. If someone tries both sides, I am locked out and have to use the slim jim to open it the old fashioned way.

Since you asked for clarification, I am starting to think this is both annoying and not normal...
BobN

I don't have a rain gauge, but left a wheel barrow out by the back door so I could see how much rain we were getting. We got 1.5 loads of rain. I emptied it when it started spilling over the top and then by this morning it was half full again. Not scientific, but it is what I've got. No Flooding and the mustang was out in the rain the whole time with dry carpets this morning! I call that a good day.

BobN

I used to race Fox bodies and there are a lot of things you can disconnect to make sure you are not chasing a bunch of demons.
Optional items to get the car idling:
IAC
EGR
O2
MAF

Disconnect all of them and your car should still start and idle. It won't be happy, but it will still work. If it doesn't, you need to bump up the curb idle speed on the TB. Remove the IAC and make sure it is clean, but that it works. If the surging magicly went away while in limp mode (due to the disconnected sensors, I would start looking at them as your source).

In my experience it is usually caused by the TPS and the IAC fighting each other. I have had two TPS sensors that worked, but had a dirty signal. If you watched the voltage as you slowly opened the throtle, it would jump back and forth instead of a gradual increase. I have had several IACs stick open, or get clogged with crud from the valve cover.

Don't rely on the tuner to "fix" and peculiarities of the EEC-IV, only use it to adjust your fuel and timing curves. The other items are fairly well managed with the stock tables.
BobN
 

I found several rolls of wire loom wrap at a local dollar store. It looks like electrical tape without any adhesive. I just added all of my additional circuits and then just added a second layer of loom wrap over the original covering, it made everything look new and really hid the new wires. Since they are now branching out like the factory wires, you would have to know what is stock to know that anything has changed. Half a roll did the entire under hood loom.

BobN

For the last 20 years, I have always made my own seperators out of zip ties. I have never had issues, and the best part is if they get messed up or need to be replaced, the price is right!

I, of course, do not have any pictures of my loom seperators, but there is a video on youtube on how to make them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWO1Oes7oJw

I of course use black zipties for my black ingition wires, but you could use white or red or yellow if you so desired.
BobN